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Looking at used KZ1300, any help from the crowd? 7 years 5 months ago #16552

  • scotch
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Welcome to the Forum ! A few things to comment on. Impressed that you took the time to read and research before going to look at it. Kudos ! Good that you could take it for a ride and it sounds like it scores a "Pass" in that regard. The bike looks immaculate ! Given the fact that you've ridden it with out any apparent issues and it's so clean, the price might not be out of reality - IMHO. If it were closer to my location, "I'd buy it" ! As mentioned previously - Read the FAQ's ! They're an invaluable wealth of info. Don't be too alarmed with the volume of material. Most of the bikes being found out there these days are no where near as clean as this one - as you describe it. So I'll suggest most of the FAQ's and concerns won't apply but you should do "Due Diligence" in having a thorough understand of what most are up against and the FAQ's are the first place to begin.
Normally the first comment and suggestion is regarding the Cam-Chain Tensioner. ( I see Kawboy just did - Thanks for not disappointing me Kb! )
By now you've already read about this concern. Lots of help available here for the asking and look forward to hearing you've made "The Decision".
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !

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Looking at used KZ1300, any help from the crowd? 7 years 5 months ago #16553

  • srech77
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Kawboy wrote: Oh there's going to be some boys in New Zealand pissed when they see this post. To them $4500.00 would be an absolute steal especially when it's running sweet !! One of them Dion I think paid upwards of $15000 for a unit from the U.S. and it has problems. Not that he can't deal with them. Just that for the money it should have been golden.
I bought a basket case for $500 and by the time I'm finished putting me baby together I'll be above $6,000. So getting an absolute mint stock with that mileage for that money, you'd better run over there and grab it. All and all, a fair price.
As far as the noise- if you can post a video, we can help. These bikes like to eat cam tensioner nylon gears and there is an aftermarket gear made by Liska which is steel. Maybe ask him if he's had a Liska tensioner gear installed. The Liska gear will humm for a bit until it meshes in.


I did ask him about the cam gear, he said it has not been done. I think he was confused because he said the alternative would be a zx11 tensioner? So am I understanding that both the gear and the tensioner should be replaced?

I'm headed over to pick it up shortly, pretty excited! I'll have to give it a ride and another once over, but I'm hoping it will be a great bike. I've already ordered some brake pads front and rear for it as he said those have not been done either.

Will also need to acquire some fork seals, does All Balls make a kit for this bike? He said the air filter has been replaced ... might put some sea foam and premium in the tank and go ride it a good ways.

Also, does anyone go to the lithium or gel batteries on these bikes? It is not the stock battery, but I'm just wondering if those units will eliminate some hassle in the long run?

When I have the bike home, I'll try to get some better pictures for you all! Thanks for your responses today -

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Looking at used KZ1300, any help from the crowd? 7 years 5 months ago #16554

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Thank you guys for the warm welcomes and the helpful and friendly advice - this forum has already proved better than many I've been on before it.

So I just ordered the Liska steel cam gear lol. Not cheap little buggers are they?! I know I'll have to replace it eventually, and it drives me nuts to ride something knowing there is a weak link somewhere in the motor. So now I'll have to do some research on the hell of changing out that gear ... hopefully not too horrible of a mess?

Also, what do you experts use as your actually tensioner fix? Is that the zx11 unit.... it's probably on the web somewhere, but sometimes just easier for someone to put it out there since we're talking about it.

I'll have updates soon -

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Looking at used KZ1300, any help from the crowd? 7 years 5 months ago #16555

  • Kawboy
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srech77 wrote:

Kawboy wrote: Oh there's going to be some boys in New Zealand pissed when they see this post. To them $4500.00 would be an absolute steal especially when it's running sweet !! One of them Dion I think paid upwards of $15000 for a unit from the U.S. and it has problems. Not that he can't deal with them. Just that for the money it should have been golden.
I bought a basket case for $500 and by the time I'm finished putting me baby together I'll be above $6,000. So getting an absolute mint stock with that mileage for that money, you'd better run over there and grab it. All and all, a fair price.
As far as the noise- if you can post a video, we can help. These bikes like to eat cam tensioner nylon gears and there is an aftermarket gear made by Liska which is steel. Maybe ask him if he's had a Liska tensioner gear installed. The Liska gear will humm for a bit until it meshes in.


I did ask him about the cam gear, he said it has not been done. I think he was confused because he said the alternative would be a zx11 tensioner? So am I understanding that both the gear and the tensioner should be replaced? The tensioner is a concern. At 12,000 miles maybe not yet but soon.the ZX11 tensioner had worked well for most provided the spring gets shortened the required amount. The gear would require removing the cylinder head to do. At the very least you should pull the valve cover and look down in the cam chain cavity and look at the nylon gear and see what if any damage the nylon gear has and determine what next.

I'm headed over to pick it up shortly, pretty excited! I'll have to give it a ride and another once over, but I'm hoping it will be a great bike. I've already ordered some brake pads front and rear for it as he said those have not been done either.

Will also need to acquire some fork seals, does All Balls make a kit for this bike? He said the air filter has been replaced ... might put some sea foam and premium in the tank and go ride it a good ways. If it's running fine, why would you chance messing it up with Seafoam? Throw the premium in and enjoy riding. If anything consider using Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer for ethanol fuel on a regular basis to keep the ethanol in the fuel from messing up the carb.

Also, does anyone go to the lithium or gel batteries on these bikes? It is not the stock battery, but I'm just wondering if those units will eliminate some hassle in the long run?
Can't speak to this but I seem to recall something in the Forum about the compatability of the lithium batteries with the electrical system. I think the gel cells are fine most likely. Someone else chime in here please !!
When I have the bike home, I'll try to get some better pictures for you all! Thanks for your responses today -

(My responses to your questions in blue) Some of the questions I can't answer.

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Last edit: by Kawboy.

Looking at used KZ1300, any help from the crowd? 7 years 5 months ago #16556

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You are right - I opted for no sea foam, I just filled up with 91 premium and went for a ride - it's supposed to be ethanol free, but that's wishful thinking. The inside of the gas tank looks great, don't see any signs of rust or corrosion.

I will get after the cam gear soon enough, but is there another alternative to the modified zx11 tensioner? Or is that the way to go ...

If I pull the valve cover off, will I need a replacement gasket on hand to reinstall the cover?

Couple quick questions - I noticed the rad fan kicked on even when the key was off when I was in the driveway, is that normal for these bikes? Obviously it shut off after it cycled, I just didn't think they could run with the power off.

Also, the little key slot that pops the seat up... apparently when you turn that, the rear light comes on?! Seems like the key has 3 different positions aside from the click that opens the seat... just something I've never seen...

Thanks again all for your help today. I feel like I got a nice bike, so hopefully it ends up being a good one. Pics to follow tomorrow hopefully..

Oh - and does everyone just run standard SAE 10W-40 conventional oil? Regular filters....?

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Last edit: by srech77.

Looking at used KZ1300, any help from the crowd? 7 years 5 months ago #16557

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srech77 wrote: You are right - I opted for no sea foam, I just filled up with 91 premium and went for a ride - it's supposed to be ethanol free, but that's wishful thinking. The inside of the gas tank looks great, don't see any signs of rust or corrosion.

I will get after the cam gear soon enough, but is there another alternative to the modified zx11 tensioner? Or is that the way to go ...

If I pull the valve cover off, will I need a replacement gasket on hand to reinstall the cover?

Couple quick questions - I noticed the rad fan kicked on even when the key was off when I was in the driveway, is that normal for these bikes? Obviously it shut off after it cycled, I just didn't think they could run with the power off.

Also, the little key slot that pops the seat up... apparently when you turn that, the rear light comes on?! Seems like the key has 3 different positions aside from the click that opens the seat... just something I've never seen...

Thanks again all for your help today. I feel like I got a nice bike, so hopefully it ends up being a good one. Pics to follow tomorrow hopefully..

Oh - and does everyone just run standard SAE 10W-40 conventional oil? Regular filters....?


That is a fine looking bike. I would have paid $4500 for it locally especially knowing what I know now. Looks like a great find.

You probably should replace the valve cover gasket if you take the cover off. They are not expensive and easy to find.

I put an APE manual tensioner in mine. Easy to install and adjust properly.

It is normal for the fan to kick on when the ignition is off. The temperature continues to rise for a few minutes after the engine is shutoff which triggers the thermostat. It may come on once or twice on a really hot day. it is external to the ignition circuit for this reason.

The key switch under the seat has 4 positions. On, off, park, open seat. In the off position your bike should have no power at all even when the ignition key switch is on. Think of it as early anti-theft. The on switch allows the bike to start and run normally. In the park position the tail light is lit. Spring loaded opens the seat.

Oil is a complicated question with everyone giving a different answer... most of them right in some way. I personally use Shell Rotella T diesel engine oil. The type I use is safe for wet clutches and is a great oil for these bikes.

As to the whirring sound you mentioned... it would be great if you record it and post it. It may be the normal whirring that the engine makes as it does its thing. I've had a few of them now and the engine has its own unique sound that is different from other motorcycles.

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