TOPIC:

Hi i brought a set of 6 k&l gauges when i unpacked them and tested them 1 doesn't zero.Contacted the suppler and they didn't want to know about it said eBay damaged it and contact them i explained the box and gauge is UN damaged but eBay have given us a full refund but i still need another gauge does anyone know were i can buy 1 please

Can't help with a replacement supplier but just looking at your picture it would appear as though the out of calibration gauge you need to replace is missing the screw on the end of the needle shaft which secures the needle in place on the shaft and if that's the case, the manufacturer should be good for the replacement. I would flip them a copy of the picture and ask again to make it right.
Surely the manufacturer offered a warranty of some kind and this should fall into the no questions asked full replacement. ???

Sorry for your bad luck. If you end up stuck with them, all is not lost. First: You only need three. One per carb. So you actually have two working spares. SO, Choose any of the working three which read the closest with a common vacuum applied.

KB's point could be valid if a pointer retaining-screw is missing but generally on gauges of this size and nature, the dial-pointer is pressed onto the shaft. I've repaired many skydiving wrist altimeters which have suffered from being dropped. (Not from 10.000') Their mechanics are identical to common vacuum gauges.
There are two aspects to an "adjustment", the first being a course adjustment.
If a gauge fails to zero there can be several reasons, assuming the Bourdon-tube and mechanics are otherwise intact.
1) A hard impact has caused the gearing to "jump". It's not likely this issue happened during shipping as you'd likely have several gauges reading incorrectly.
2) The gauge has been connected to a source (vacuum gauge or Pressure gauge) beyond it's designed rating and "stretched" the Bourdon-tube which has forced the crown-gear past its last tooth.
3) Something as foreign material is caught in the simple gear mechanism preventing the two gears from completing the rotation.

Gauges like yours retain the lens with a pressed-on bezel. It looks like your gauges are of this style. The bezel is usually easy to remove by carefully working it 360 degrees until it comes off. A friction-fit is common but there could be some "detents" which help lock it to the main case. Start by carefully prying where the brass base comes out of the housing.
You can then carefully rotate the needle "backwards" to the "stop-pin". You will feel the needle "click" several or more times as the teeth of the pinion gear skip over the last tooth of the rack. The needle should then be close to Zero. If it is within one increment , leave it! If more then one increment - Carefully lift the needle by the TIP just enough to clear the stop-pin and feel for ONE "click". Now lift the needle back over to the scale side. It should now rest against the stop-pin at zero. If it still reads "high", repeat; feeling for ONE "click".
To check for accuracy, connect all the gauges to a common Vacuum source and pull a vacuum as high as possible within the scale range. Theoretically all the gauges should read the same. The "repaired" gauge should be close.
Here's where the quality of the gauges comes into play. The 5 "good" gauges should read the same. The repaired gauge may also but should at least be very close. If it reads several or more increments lower then you can rotate the needle - that's a lot of "clicks" and start over. You can not break anything!
There's an additional step which is needed to match two or more gauges so they have the same "sweep" range. This allows the needles to read Zero AND the same vacuum, however I fear if you attempt this on all six gauges you'll end up in the Looney-Bin so I won't detail this aspect.
Regardless: If your gauges read differently when connected to a common source you must make note of the discrepancy and account for it in the final reading.

The diagram should help with all this mumble-jumble!

Thanks for the reply s the instrument repairer in town said he will have a look ill send in a good one as well so he can check they are calibrated the same. I brought the six gauges because i have a cbx but so far its been a fantastic bike with zero problems.The people i got them off wont do anything to fix them they expect me to get a refund from eBay and buy another set off them that wont happen and i cant find the manufacture ill keep trying.

I use a set from Carbtune www.carbtune.com/ , they work well, just thought i'd mention them :-)

kiwirider wrote: Thanks for the reply s the instrument repairer in town said he will have a look ill send in a good one as well so he can check they are calibrated the same. I brought the six gauges because i have a cbx but so far its been a fantastic bike with zero problems.The people i got them off wont do anything to fix them they expect me to get a refund from eBay and buy another set off them that wont happen and i cant find the manufacture ill keep trying.

That looks to be in some shape! Nice.