TOPIC:

I just scored a complete DFI set up from a ZN1300 and was wondering do I need to add a return to the fuel tank? and has any one done the conversion and can give me some pointers. I know Dave Ewing did it and had pics and tips on the old site.Any help would be appreciated.

Yes you will need the return line. David's article covers the supply and return lines. Hopefully you removed the return line check-valve off of the ZN's fuel tank.

On your KZ tank you'll need to weld on a nut aka (bung) so you can thread That fitting n your tank.

Keep us posted. This is a mod I have always wanted to do.

You don't need to weld a bung onto the tank. Just make up an adapter to screw the check valve into and use plumbing fittings on either side to go from 1/4" barb fitting on one side to another 1/4" barb fitting on the other, then run it to a "T" in the fuel line between the shut-off/res. valve and the pump. Sometimes those check valves can back-leak slowly, and if you use your fuel shut-off valve on the tank, that will also help prevent any backflow through the check valve if it should leak.

I HIGHLY recommend that you have the ZN1300 supplement manual if you don't already have one. Chapter 3 goes into the deep details of the fuel system and troubleshooting. It will also show you all of the other input items to the DFI controller. It gives you several warnings about testing these injectors, too. NEVER shoot 12v straight to an injector! It can kill it, just like a flash bulb. Needs a 7w bulb in series with it to limit the current.

Is this the valve you guys are talking about?So I guess will be needing part#16130-1002? I contacted the seller he doesn't have it but according to the OEM parts site it was used on multiple Kawasaki of the period and still available.

Yes, that's the check valve. I never took mine out of the tank to see exactly what's on the top, but looks like you might be able to connect a hose directly to the part that sticks up inside the tank, if it isn't a screen. If you can, then it can be connected with no modifications to a "T" in the line between the fuel shut-off/res. valve and the fuel filter. There is no pressure on that check valve to worry about blowing the hose off.

Okay kool just a T fitting and I'm good to go.Wasn't looking forward to the prospect of drilling my tank.The fuel rail if I remember Mr Ewing's article I believe he had to cut and weld the rail so it would clear the frame? I was thinking when I get to that point was to just make a custom fuel rail out of FI hose and T fittings.Would that work or am I stuck using the stock metal fuel rail?