TOPIC:

You will need spring #28 for your fuel air screw to be stable. Engine vibration will more than likely change them and they need to be kept under tension which is what the spring is for.

It's normal for them to be at different "Turns Out" from the seated position due to each bore breathing differently.

After you find a set of springs, try the dealership and see if they are available. start with 3 to 3.5 turns out from the seated position.

Also obtain a Gunson Colortune tool to read each cylinder as you adjust those screws. See Youtube for their tutorial on their product.

If you want to tackle this project all the way, you will need a carb synchronization tool to properly adjust the Balance Adjusters too.

I have a core set of carbs that I may have a set of springs I can provide, I'll look for them this weekend.

Regards.

T.

Many thanks for the information Todd, you’re a star.
I have the springs; they are in the rebuild kits I bought. I was just a bit confused because there were no springs on the original pilot screws. Maybe that’s why they were glued in. Also, a lot of the original screws in the carbs are a bit chewed up, so I suspect whoever worked on the carbs before me was a bit heavy handed.
This forum is excellent.

with those screws being glued in, make sure you get any leftover residue out of that screw boss.

The passages in that circuit are the smallest in the carb body and they cannot tolerate any debris or blockage, given their small size.

As you clean the carbs, and while you are rinsing them, make sure you have a rubber tipped gun nozzle. you should also have 125 to 150psi shop air to blow out the parts and passages.

With this being your first 1300 carb build, lightly apply air pressure on one of the idle circuit screw holes, see where it exits the throat of the carb. Once done, back blow all 6 circuits to make sure the screw hole is clear, before you apply air pressure to the font side of that circuit.

It would be easy to cram debris even further down in the hole, if you start by applying air pressure downward first. Blow it out in reverse first, then downward.

T.

Sorry, I meant to reply rather than thank you! I have been to the pub but only had a couple.

I would use the springs and start at 3.5 full turns out. Then get a colour tune plug and adjust each one from there.

When I do mine I colour tune adjust all 6 and then adjust balance across the three pairs with vacuum gauges. I then repeat this as many times as required (normally only twice if it's all working properly)

Success at last.
I refitted the carbs, it started up ok but the mixture was way too rich, the engine was popping and banging out of the exhaust. I tried to lean the mixture off, but I just couldn’t get it to run properly. I knew something wasn’t right, so it was off with the carbs again. I couldn’t seem to get the pilot screws to screw in far enough.
When I originally stripped the carbs, I thought there were no springs on the pilot screws. Hence the reason they were glued in. I transpires the original springs were there, seized into the bottom of the holes. After much careful picking and prodding and lot of carb cleaner I finally managed to get them all out.
I feel such a fool not to have noticed them, but in my defence I didn’t expect bits to be glued in.
Carbs back on (again) and its running sweet as can be. I have still to colour tune them yet but its all sounding good so far.
So many thanks for all the advice guys; I wouldn’t have managed without your help.
As an aside, I would like to suggest that anyone who uses glue on carburettors, should be taken somewhere quiet, and kicked, really hard, right in the gentlemen’s area.

Well then you are on your way.

Good job on getting it going.

Todd.