TOPIC:

"Carbs are clean. Just need adjusting" !
No, they were not ! The "Tool" flushed this out !





I suspect the brass flakes are from the springs scrapping away material from the Pilot needles. The other crap.....who knows.

Keyster Kits? Cir-clips provided for the Choke plungers are too small ! Had to reuse the OEM's.



Choke Plunger shafts are 0.11mm too large. Couple this addition friction through the dust-seal with the supplied smaller and lighter plunger return spring and the choke plungers won't close ! Had to reuse the OEM plunger springs.








Float-valve needle retainer springs. They came assembled. Did no one notice that when assembled (for packaging) the springs held the valve closed ! Apparently NOT ! Reused the OEM's.



3 Keyster kits: $169.97 us ! Plus $20.00us shipping
OR: 3 kits for $44.95us plus $8.00us shipping.
I use the "generics" and have had no problems.
Your money - Your decision !

Hi Scotch,

Great review on carb refurb, which I am currently doing now on my own 1300 carbs.

My 3 carb bodies are now immersed in jugs of cellulose thinners for a week to ensure all tarnish and crab is disolved, before flushing them through with a syringe whilst still immersed. It is amazing just how much crap this gets out of them .................even after sonic cleaning.

I note that you are using the original Choke Plungers..............which I always do, because they have the location pins on the bottom, which the Carb Kit type available do not have.

Pete F
UK

I note that you are using the original Choke Plungers..............which I always do, because they have the location pins on the bottom, which the Carb Kit type available do not have.

That pin doesn't "locate" the piston. The Piston does that on it's own. The pin as best as I can surmise was used initially to control the fuel until the piston was at it's highest position; when the air and fuel ports are exposed. At some point someone in the aftermarket industry decided it wasn't required. They were correct. Having installed plungers with and without the "pin", there is no difference when doing the final adjustments.

Scotch,

Interesting.

I had one Z1300 a few years ago which I refurbed the carbs on and had issues with starting once back on the bike, so I swapped them for the originals and the problem was solved, hence always using them from there on.
As I am following your Choke Air Mod with these carbs, I will take your advice and fit the new plungers (without the pin) and go from there.

If you have tested with both and there is no difference, then I would prefer to use new ones anyway.

Pete F
UK

The choke seems to work just as well whether plungers have pins or not. Starting remained the same, regardless of style.
Pins or no pins? Enricher operative or "gutted"? What ever works, for the better.

My 3 carb bodies are now immersed in jugs of cellulose thinners for a week

There has been some previous discussion over the confusion between Lacquer thinner and Cellulose thinner. If your "cellulose" thinner has been used similarly in the past then obviously it's OK.

Some time ago someone posted photos of carb bodies that had been left too long in a cleaner or solvent; I'm not positive but Cellulose thinner is jumping out at me. The carbs were ruined do to a chemical reaction that badly oxidized and coated all surfaces. The throttle shaft seals would likely have been compromised, as well.

"Test" for an adverse reaction on a float bowl first, if soaking carbs in an unproven cleaner or solvent: