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Can't get bike to run properly? pt-1 6 years 1 month ago #19006

  • scotch
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I rebuilt several sets of carbs over the winter and thought I had seen everything until I received this set. The P.O. stated these carbs came directly off the bike, which he could get to run correctly. First thing I checked before disassembly was the float-height and sync. 2 floats were at 5mm ! Sync was "off" significantly. Then took them apart to find some real surprises. The P.O. had a "mechanic-friend" install an after-market carb-rebuild kit but to no avail......and no wonder ! First thing to note is the "friend" did absolutely nothing about even a superficial cleaning. Filthy - inside and out. Unimaginable to me how ANYONE could put new parts into a carb-set and reassemble with no effort to at least wipe out the dirt, sand (yes-sand), rust and other foreign debris stuck to everything. This included the inside of the Slides which were also so varnished on the outside they resisted sliding. Only 4 of the emulsion-tubes were "new". 2 were OEM? It was obvious the "installer" had used a Blade screw-driver to insert and orient them and in doing so chipped the critical edges of the four new ones and I suspect "F%$#@'D" -up two so badly he had to re-use 2 originals! The OEM's have a "bevelled" edge where the Main-needle inserts - The "aftermarket" E-tubes have no such detail which would likely affect the atomization of the dispersed fuel stream. Moving on to the enriching diaphragms. The pictures say it all !
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !

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Last edit: by scotch.

Can't get bike to run properly? pt-2 6 years 1 month ago #19007

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Was equally unimpressed with the choke-plungers. OEM's appear to have a separate rubber seal that is inserted into the head. The ones from this set appeared to have been "poured" as a liquid. One of the 3 had no "witness-mark" indicating it was in contact with the seat and 2 had uneven marks in the seal. Don't need to elaborate here, either. Additionally, the choke-lifters were misaligned; opening the plungers at different times.
The idle-speed adjuster was backed-off a full 1/4" from the "lever" which is why (I suspect to compensate) the fast idle-screw was turned in 4 turns which had the fast-idle cam-roller taking the full brunt of all the return springs. HARSH ! AND, the the idle mix-screws were all different - ranging from 1.5 to 5 turns.
The deal-breaker was the condition of the machined inserts on the cyl. end. Short of battery-acid, I have no clue as to what the hell was run through these poor carbs.
Anyone else ever seen anything like this? Look very closely at the corrosion. One insert is missing about 15% of the material. Have to wonder if the piece fell out as a chunk or was eroded away gradually?
This set was returned !
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !

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Last edit: by scotch.

Can't get bike to run properly? pt-2 6 years 1 month ago #19010

  • Kawboy
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Send a letter back to the guy and tell him to sell his tools and go buy a set of knives. It's obvious he has rare talents as a Butcher.:whistle:

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Can't get bike to run properly? pt-1 6 years 1 month ago #19011

  • McZee
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HE should tell his "mechanic friend" to stick to shoeing horses.
:P

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Can't get bike to run properly? pt-1 6 years 1 month ago #19015

  • StanG
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Wow, if words can speak, these pictures definitely scream!!! It does indeed look like they were cleaned with acid! hahaha They deserve to be displayed in a
hall of fame.

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Can't get bike to run properly? pt-1 6 years 1 month ago #19019

  • Ledkz1300
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Hall of SHAME perhaps..... wow.

Is there any chance that battery acid somehow found its way into the airbox at some point in its life?

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