TOPIC:

I'm still trying to source an in tank fuel tap filter for my 86 Voyager. I occasionally see aftermarket taps (with screens) for Kawasaki's on eBay (e.g. Fuel Tap ) The spec is that centre to centre bolt spacing is 34mm. Does anyone happen to have their tank off or has a spare tank that they can measure and post the tap bolt spacing? Thanks

I have my tank off but it's 1/2 full so didn't pull the shut-off - But an eye-ball measurement gives a measurement of 44-45mm center to center. Unfortunately, like most, I removed the in-tank screen a LONG time ago. Regrettably, now. I've never seen these screens for sale anywhere. I've looked at making something several times but haven't figured that out yet. The in-tank screen would prevent damage to the valve-cone and body from any foreign material scratching the surfaces but a separate in-line filter is still strongly recommended.
I can only presume that your OEM valve leaks! This can sometimes be fixed if the scratches aren't to deep in either the nylon valve-cone or tapered bore.
I "lapped" mine some time ago and it now shuts off with no leaks. Easy to do - nothing to lose by trying and if it works you keep another OEM part !

I haven't had the tap in my hand yet, but I would imagine the mesh could be crafted. Scotch - if you could manufacture a carb float, this should be within your skill! I'd take brass, cut a rib cage from it, and solder fine stainless steel mesh to it. I've combined soldering copper, brass and stainless steel in the past, and they all stick together strong.

I guess the seed has been planted:huh:

scotch wrote: ... The in-tank screen would prevent damage to the valve-cone and body from any foreign material scratching the surfaces...

Yes, this is exacly why I'd like to get a screen put back in.

scotch wrote: ...
I can only presume that your OEM valve leaks! This can sometimes be fixed if the scratches aren't to deep in either the nylon valve-cone or tapered bore.

No leaks yet. I initially took the tap apart to clean it because it wouldn't' move. I managed to clean out the crud and free the tap without any damage but it's a poor design as crud from the tank continues to collect in the valve cone/bore and make it inoperable (it's already stuck again). A better design - even with the screen in place - would have included a small sediment bowl - like most taps - under the valve cone. At this point, I don't want to risk moving it - as it'll scratch the tap bore as you suggest.

PS: thanks for eyeballing the screw spacing.

I get 43.5mm center to center when i measure my spare OEM petcock