TOPIC:

Thanks for the offer, kza13. I managed to find a replacement on EBay before the bike arrived. The housing is in worse shape than the one on the bike, but Ithink I can gut the switches and wiring and transfer it to the good case. We shall see.

Out of curiosity, what is that soldered fuse actually FOR? (Can't get to my manual at the moment)

Just a word about the battery- the odyssey battery with the best fit is the pc 680 -but it doesn't fill the original hole completely - not quite long enough but that is as good as it gets. Get a small belt to hold it in place. They do recover from a no charge very well -that is what they were designed for-but to get it up to peak voltage is does require their own charger.

Lucien-Harpress wrote: Thanks for the offer, kza13. I managed to find a replacement on EBay before the bike arrived. The housing is in worse shape than the one on the bike, but Ithink I can gut the switches and wiring and transfer it to the good case. We shall see.

Out of curiosity, what is that soldered fuse actually FOR? (Can't get to my manual at the moment)

As you look at the fuse box from the left of the bike - top to bottom
30A Main ( the copper tube)
10A Fan Motor
10A Head Lamp
10A Tail/Meter Lamp
2A Parking Lamp (Tail)

Hope that helps

I wonder if your right hand switches were butchered to bypass the secondary switch under the seat? The key slot should be horizontal for the engine to run.

NOPE! That would make sense! The secondary switch is still required (which through me for a bit). I was told his start button stopped working, so he replaced the one switch. I didn't realized he decided to slash and burn the entire control unit.

The three position switch is my "kill" switch. One position is "off", one is "on without headlight" and the last is "on WITH headlight".

How does this bike deal with the headlight on start? Is it like my old Yamaha xs11? Off until the motor is running?

On US spec they leave the headlamp on all of the time - does not help with starting! I think you can turn them off on European models.

I'm trying to modify mine (a US B2 import) with a relay to leave them off until the bike is running - but I'm also trying to fit a blade fuse box from a ZZ-R1100 (ZX11) which I've had to heavily modify to work with the Z13 harness.

As I recall, and it was a long time ago.... On my 79 1300 the headlight high beam switch was a 'ring' affair. You can dismantle the switch and pull the ring out and file down the stops on the ring so that that headlamp can be switched to an 'off' position. Of course, you risk driving around forgetting to turn the headlight on.

Alternatively, you could wire the headlight to a NC relay contacts and trigger the relay with the oil pressure indicator lamp circuit (so that the headlamp is ON (NC position) if the oil pressure light is off, but when there's no oil pressure (like before your start the bike, the oil pressure indicator light is on, opening the relay - turning off the headlamp).