TOPIC:

Thought I'd make a place for work on the 84 DFI to live.

So this bike was sold as a running bike with low KM's and work done to the brakes.

Now it started up but didn't run very well.

I started by blaming the DFI. Since I had no experience with it, and as mentioned in my introduction the main fuel line to the filter was half blocked with rust and debris, which has since been removed. This helped but still, it was not running 100%. I spent time mucking around with fuel line routing convinced their was a kink etc. After many hours I decided to leave it as it, I am unsure if it is the correct routing though.

When the bike was idling I did notice it was not on all cylinders, by putting some water on the pipes.(Only after being reminded that is a bad idea to touch them with your hands)
I them started checking injectors and stopped after two, and decided to go back to basics when I realized it would be a pain to reach the 3,4 injectors.

So I checked spark first, and wouldn't you know it their was spark. On the random plug I picked up and held against the engine. I them though, I haven't pulled the plugs on this engine yet, since I was told they were changed when the work was done, against my better judgment I pulled the plugs. They were sooty, maybe carbon fouled? I wasn't sure. So I swapped plugs from dead cylinders to live ones and the once running cylinder was now dead and the cold ones now alive. So I ducked down to super cheap auto and purchased some NGK BPR6ES(Not sure if this is correct following ZN1300 Manual). The plugs that where in the engine where BP7ES. Possibly the colder plug caused the plugs to foul.

The bike now runs on all cylinders and pulls nicely, sounds fantastic.

Only Problem now is that when the throttle is closed, the bike doesn't decel like you would expect, takes a while for rpms to drop. The throttle cable is a bit dicky, and feels "weird".
Now I would generally jump head first into a throttle cable issue, but the TPS is something that needs adjustment, and its recommended to do so with a special tool.
My first question is. can this be done with a Ohm meter and some time, and can a good setting be achieved?

Update,

The throttle bodies ended up being pulled, which was daunting at first, but ended up being not so bad.

What I noticed:

Fast idle mechanism installed backwards; Resolved

Butter Fly's not in sync; manual sync done vacuum sync to do.

The throttle stop mechanism seems not to be adjusted properly;

Throttle cables are junk; lubricating them made no difference.

Currently have the bike running at what I think is an okay idle, have no good references. Video to come

Here is a short video of the bike running, Its not perfect. Would like opinions as to how well or bad it is running as I have no good references as to what is good and what is bad.

The oil light is on but their is oil and oil pressure I think it is to do with the light circuit for the oil light.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Best to get rid of that plastic filter before it explodes. Get a Ryco Z200 for a VL Commodore it will take the pressure that the EFI works at. You are lucky it has not already gone pop and sprayed burning fuel everywhere.

Need to get the oil pressure indication sorted out. Of all of the possible things that could be indicated on an engine, the oil pressure is probably the most critical and that's why it's monitored and has a Red indication light and not amber. When the red light comes on it means stop.
There's numerous threads on this site showing pics of all of the shit members have found stuck in the oil pick up strainer before the oil pump. And of course it's possible that the oil indicator switch is stuck and not responding to the oil pressure but until you can confirm the oil pressure otherwise, I wouldn't be running the engine.

It sounds nice and sweet otherwise so don't take the chance and sieze it up.

And for the record, even when I was working in the Nuclear power plant, for whatever reason people just want to waive off indicators saying things are not right and they want to continue running a piece of equipment. Then things go "BANG" and they want to run away and say "It just happened and I don't know why" Then we in maintenance would download the equipment history and see that they had over ridden or acknowledged the failure indications and kept running the equipment. For the life of me, I don't understand why people fail to accept indicators that were put there to warn you of a catastropic failure.

So my question to you is "Would you rather fix a faulty oil indication switch or try to rebuild a 40 year old engine with limited parts ?"

Thanks fellas for the input.

RickG, regarding the fuel Filter the OEM one is plastic and this is the low pressure side of things, is their a know issue with them going pop?

Thanks Kawaboy, the oil light being on is very disheartening to me, I spent about a day searching through the wiring the sensors are fine, I had to stop because I couldn't find the Oil level/ pressure relay component on the bike under the tank or near the battery area. Also don't have any info specifically for the Z1300, like a wiring diagram. I will check the pressure just as a mater of due course, would be nice to know,; chance oil and filter as well.