TOPIC:

I meant to say the air screws are too far out, and I'm still rich across the board. I checked that the idle air passages were clear so my only option is to drop the needles. I can screw an idle air screw in and get the cylinder to flood out, I can back it out to the point where it will come back at about 5 turns out, unscrewing further provides no change. Has to be the needles at this point because its the same on all 6.

Cooling system was fine until it just acted up recently. Yesterday when I bypassed the fan switch all was fine, The fan will stay running as long as I make the ground circuit. The wire to the switch is new, has to be the switch acting up.

Screwing them in leans them out.I personally would wait until You get it back together ride it warm it up properly then work on the other areas of the tune. Seriously though a colourtune will save you a lot of guess work.Read a few tuning guides for carbs to get an idea of how to go about the rest.

Oh and temp switches for the fan can play up when the system isn't bled properly air pockets play havoc on them.

aus_z1300 wrote: Tyler I am not sure if it is a typo when you said idle screws out to far Did you mean the mixture screws that will make it run rich.
And might I suggest using a colourtune to set the idle mixture should be a thread on the subject if you do a search.
Also Have you bled the system according to manual where you take out the fan fuse let it boil etc.
As for mains needle height and alike there are several guides that will help select the right setup Like the 4 position throttle marking with a plug chop.Like this as an example kawtriple.com/mraxl/carb/carbadj.htm

Some of the information on the kawtriple site is pertinent but it is discussing Mikuni VM carbs and not our Mukuni CV carbs. VM carbs have a mechanically operated throttle piston where ours are operated by a vacuum diaphragm. Setting the air bleed screws is somewhat correct providing the idle position of the butterfly plates is correct. It's critical that the throttle plates be in the right position at the idle otherwise the air bleed screws will be adjusted to compensate for mixture, then when the throttle starts to open up, the mixture goes off and you end up with a flat spot or hesitation.
It's pretty save to say when everything's running right and you find the air bleed screws out 3-1/2 turns give or take a 1/4 turn, that you're on the money.

aus_z1300 wrote: Screwing them in leans them out...

Ahhh dang it! I was working on another project and confused the two... I was all bass akwards on the topic. Your right and indeed I was fighting my own flawed logic.... Thanks for catching that.

Ok so here is the deal, something is not quite right at idle. Sometimes I get a miss but is seems to move from cylinder to cylinder, come off idle and it goes away. Idle screws are not making sense... something was not right in carburation land and I think I found my problem, well possibly.






The air box boots that were on this bike are incorrect, I'm not sure but I think the previous owner has used ones from a voyager. They fit when stretched over the carb but they may be causing some leaks, and it's possible they are messing with the air flow to ports on the side of venturi. I crawled up into the attic and pulled down some spare air box parts and now I'm sure they are wrong.

I installed the old ones but they are in tough shape, thet will work well enough for me to test my theory. Then I will have to get some replacements.

The saga continues...

One thing you might need to check not sure if it's just the pic but it looks like you have the slides stuck open a bit in the carb.

Yes, its certainly possible that ill fitting boots will cause your grief.