rear master cylinder

I have a 1300 that has been sitting for a long time, no pressure in front or rear brakes, I was going to blead them but I am afraid its probably more than that. The bike has been in a temperature controlled environment so rust is not an issue. I am looking for suggestions on how to proceed. Bleed first? Push old fluid through? What has been your experiences with a bike sitting for several years.

If the brake fluid is honey colored or darker, then it's a good time to change it. If it's still clear then no point in changing it. As brake fluid starts absorbing moisture it gets darker. Also any signs of black usually indicates disintegration of seals so.....

Also note that the best brake bleeding usually incorporates the use of a reverse bleeder tool which pushes brake fluid from the slave cylinders (calipers) back to the master cylinders. These tools help push the air bubbles up the hoses rather than trying to push the air down the hoses.

Probably irrelevant, but on another (Goldwing) bike I had to bleed first the master cylinder at the banjo first, then same at the caliper, then the caliper. Despite new fluid, that was what finally get me solid brakes.
Maybe try this after all suggested by KB is ok?

Fitted a "universal" ebay in place of my oem. Cheap Chinese but it is working well. I rebuilt the caliper too so i flushed the line and used DOT5 silicone fluid.. Good so far..

Bleeding at the banjo bolts is key to removing all the air (and using DOT 5 is key to ensuring you still have paint once that bolt-bleed is complete :lol: )