ZG1300 DFI Idle Charging Voltage

You can rewind them. I rewound one once. I took to an alternator re-builder and he dind't want to touch it but he gave me the wire, I did the rewind and he baked it for me - all for free. Worked like a charm.

Bucko wrote: You can rewind them. I rewound one once. I took to an alternator re-builder and he dind't want to touch it but he gave me the wire, I did the rewind and he baked it for me - all for free. Worked like a charm.

Can't believe a rebuilder wouldn't have a crack at it. Looks like a pretty simple wind compared to most automotive stator windings. Good for you Bucko !!

The challenge is on Razmo. May the Gods of all things copper and induced be on your side.

I had my 3rd fried stator rewound at an electrical shop that specialized in electric motor service. It lasted about 2 years. If I remember the time frame correctly It was about then that I was made aware of the suggestion to remove the stator plug and hard-wire these connections. Despite this I went through stator # 4 within about another 2 year (or less) period. In writing this it now seems I am currently on stator #6, not my fifth as I have previously reported. Non-the-less; OEM stator's and V/R's on these bikes just don't seem to have any longevity. I'm putting this down to a poor design of the V/R although at the time it probably seemed like a good design, given the electronics of the day.
I haven't had the current (no pun intended) new aftermarket stator and MOSFET V/R in long enough to make any definitive comment but based on the output voltages, the plug design, wire and terminal size used on the V/R and how it connects within the electrical system - I have much more confidence that it's a better choice.

I kept one of the burned-out stators and removed the winding's, keeping count of the # of "wraps". I had intended on re-winding it myself but given the reasonably low cost of a replacement I simply got lazy and never did get a re-round to it :blink: It did make a unique base for my Galileo Thermometer so it wasn't wasted !


For those who like to know how things work (and like bad music!):

And/or:
www.superhawkforum.com/forums/knowledge-...fiers-why-how-25117/

That's a great link to a MOSFET topic Scotch. I studied it back in 2013 when I was deciding to switch my Kawasaki Triples to MOSFET R/R's. And I also like that it lists a number of more recent bikes that use the MOSFETs so if you want to go to the scrap yard, you can grab one of these from a different make / model.

I also used one of these MOSFET RR's. www.lakeserv.net/kaw/regulator/index.html It also was dynamite. Absolute rock solid at 13.7 volts. Simple to install. One lead to ground, one lead to the battery and 3 leads to the 3 yellow leads coming from the stator. So simple and self contained. Idiot proof.

Kawboy wrote:

Bucko wrote: Looks like a pretty simple wind compared to most automotive stator windings.

It was a lot simpler than it may have appeared. All I did was carefully unwind the 'legs' of the winding counting the number of turns and measured the length of wire. The wire the re-builder gave me was of a very slightly larger gauge and my winding wasn't as neat as the factory so as I recall - it was almost 40 years ago - I still managed to get the same number of turns on using of the same length of wire. I remember my fingers hurting from winding that wire on!

I sold that 1300 a few years later so I'm not sure how long that home-rewound alternator lasted but it was still going strong when I sold it.

Surely it's the current being shunted to ground that causes the heat, not the shunting circuit itself?