12.5 volts charging draining battery.

I dont mind good advice but when someone accuses me of not having "common sense" I get defensive. If you dont know what tact is dont respond to my thread.Thanks for your help.

When your bike dies, do you suddenly have no electrics at all, or does it start missing and fading off to nothing?

The bike slowly dies after running fine for a few miles. I've cleaned every electrical connection and im getting 13.5 volts charge to the battery. The gas flow is ok. If the bike sits for a few minutes the battery recovers and I can ride it for another couple miles.

I"ve been watching this thread develop and feel it's time to jump in.

With only a few thousand "K" on my '80 I took it across Canada - coast-to-coast. Returned home with exactly an additional 8,000K on it. Was not without it's drama. Long story short: On the second to last day of this trip I couldn't start the bike. "0v" in battery. Managed to get it home and discovered Battery boiled dry, And 12 coils ( 2 full phases of 6 coils each of the 3 phase windings) in the stator burned so bad the mechanic commented that the only time he's seen an alternator burned so bad was a bike that had burned to the ground. Replaced the battery, Stator (under warranty) and I decided to replace the V-reg. as well. 1 year later the replacement alternator crapped-put again. This time I had it re-wound at an electric-motor repair shop. The re-wind lasted about two years and it finally crapped out. Ordered a "high output' replacement from R.M. Stator. It was at this time I removed the terminal ends between the stator and V-reg. and soldered the leads. Have not had an issue since.

More specific to rbd2here's problem I have this thought - as "out-there" as this might sound. On this same trip I had a similar issue as you've explained. Again, a long story short - one of my triggers had developed an 'open short". The symptom was unusual in that the bike would run fine for 50 to 100 K and then start losing power, forcing me to pull off. I would turn the engine OFF, wait 60 seconds and it would be back to running on all 6 again for another 50 to 100 K. Needless to say this was a P.I.T.A. !

Clearly, the trigger was heating up and when it got hot enough a broken wire would separate and render the trigger inoperative. Allowing it to cool for as little as 1 minute was all that was required for the cooling affect to allow the broken wire to "reconnect' and operate. When doing the charging system repairs I diagnosed the (1) faulty trigger, replaced it and have had no issues since.

I'll leave this thought with you.

Sounds like mine but whats a trigger? I put the acell (spelling) coils on mine and new stator and only getting 12v at battery

I think I'm going to put led lights 10w headlight and led tail lights mabe that will help as the stator is just breaking even at 3000 rpms