fuel issue
- trikebldr
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- KZQ
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Re: fuel issue
9 years 10 months ago
Hi Paul,
Please read this thread:
www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/carburato...a-common-z13-gremlin
It's not that the floats are something that you could ever repair. They're made of plastic foam. I believe that alcohol in some fuels penetrates the foam and makes the floats progressively heavier.
Check out some of Scotch's threads on "Brass Floats".
Regards
Bill
Please read this thread:
www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/carburato...a-common-z13-gremlin
It's not that the floats are something that you could ever repair. They're made of plastic foam. I believe that alcohol in some fuels penetrates the foam and makes the floats progressively heavier.
Check out some of Scotch's threads on "Brass Floats".
Regards
Bill
1947 Indian Chief, 1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 Kawasaki W3, 1976 KZ900 A4, 1979 KZ750 B4, 1979 KZ750 B4 Trike, 1980 KZ550, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1985 Kawasaki ZN1300, 1987 Yamaha Trail Way, 2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1981 GL 1100, 2009 Yamaha RoadLiner S
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- scotch
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Re: fuel issue
9 years 10 months ago - 9 years 10 months ago
Just to clarify: You can not shake an OEM float to determine if it has leaked. It is a solid piece which only absorbs fuel. Riding the bike may not necessarily free-up a "stuck" float.
Carefully remove the needle-valve body and determine if a piece of debris is stuck in the body orifice - preventing the needle valve from shutting off the fuel flow. Use a magnifying glass.
"The smallest piece of anything will cause flooding". A Quality fuel filter is essential !
Check the "o-ring" on the float needle-valve body. If the body pulls out easily with little or no resistance - the "o-ring" needs replacing. Check the needle retaining spring-clip. After market needle-valves are known to have their spring-clip interfere with the float. Check the tiny steel pin in the needle-valve (it makes contact with the float-tab). It is spring-loaded and must return to full extension when released and must be "free" to do so, with no indication it's movement is impeded or rough.
If these details check-out satisfactorily then re-evaluate the "wet-level" ON THE BENCH and adjust accordingly. A continued flooding issue usually indicates the potential need to replace the floats.
Carefully remove the needle-valve body and determine if a piece of debris is stuck in the body orifice - preventing the needle valve from shutting off the fuel flow. Use a magnifying glass.
"The smallest piece of anything will cause flooding". A Quality fuel filter is essential !
Check the "o-ring" on the float needle-valve body. If the body pulls out easily with little or no resistance - the "o-ring" needs replacing. Check the needle retaining spring-clip. After market needle-valves are known to have their spring-clip interfere with the float. Check the tiny steel pin in the needle-valve (it makes contact with the float-tab). It is spring-loaded and must return to full extension when released and must be "free" to do so, with no indication it's movement is impeded or rough.
If these details check-out satisfactorily then re-evaluate the "wet-level" ON THE BENCH and adjust accordingly. A continued flooding issue usually indicates the potential need to replace the floats.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
Always High - Know Fear !
Last edit: 9 years 10 months ago by scotch.
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