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1979 Carb Rebuild (Pt 1)
- dcarver220b
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10 years 4 days ago #5455
by dcarver220b
Replied by dcarver220b on topic Complete rebuild 1979 carburettors (Photo Heavy)
AWESOME post. This one will be linked over at the
Candy Butt
website!
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- dcarver220b
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10 years 4 days ago #5456
by dcarver220b
Replied by dcarver220b on topic Complete rebuild 1979 carburettors (Photo Heavy)
The idea of using a drill press with downward pressure is a great idea. Thanks again for posting!
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- aus_z1300
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10 years 4 days ago - 10 years 4 days ago #5458
by aus_z1300
Replied by aus_z1300 on topic Complete rebuild 1979 carburettors (Photo Heavy)
Great wite up love the use of the drill press they are so useful I use mine like a lathe occasionally and have also seen them used to bleed hydraulic lifters .
Last edit: 10 years 4 days ago by aus_z1300.
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- scotch
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10 years 3 days ago - 10 years 2 days ago #5476
by scotch
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
Replied by scotch on topic Carb rebuild continues with some cautionary notes.
The carbs have been thoroughly cleaned now. Starting with a preliminary boiling (5 to 1 lemon-juice)for a full day which removed most of the grease, oil and some light varnish and scaling. The body, bowl and top-cover were then glass-bead cleaned (I have a blasting cabinet); with one exception. I DID NOT glass-bead the throttle-bores!
The throttle-plates are precision ground to fit the venturi tightly when closed. Any attempt to clean the venturi or the throttle-plates by glass-bead cleaning would ruin them by destroying the ground edge of the throttle-plates. This would make tuning and sync'ing all but impossible. The varnish was removed from the venturis and plates with a small paint brush,lacquer-thinner and a light rubbing with "Scotch-Brite". For similar reasons the slide-bores and needle-pistons were left alone with only a cleaning using lacquer-thinner and a soft cloth.
Also note the last pictures regarding the choke pick-up tube. I was lucky in finding the jet when it blew out under air-pressure cleaning. A heavy towel on my work-bench caught it and saved me a lot of additional work! I suspect the tiny split may have been from years of stress from the jet being pressed into the end. This jet is critical! Without it there is no metered flow of fuel to and through the choke passages.
The final check to assure clear-flow through all the passage ways will be done with lacquer-thinner (to dissolve and flush anything remaining in the galleries) using the syringe you saw in the previous pictures. Once confirmed flowing and clean the final polishing and painting can take place.
The Philips-heads of 2 of the carb-bowl drain-screws were in rough shape and I dislike Philips-heads anyway, so I silver-soldered a socket-head onto them. The idle-air screws will receive a similar treatment.
The throttle-plates are precision ground to fit the venturi tightly when closed. Any attempt to clean the venturi or the throttle-plates by glass-bead cleaning would ruin them by destroying the ground edge of the throttle-plates. This would make tuning and sync'ing all but impossible. The varnish was removed from the venturis and plates with a small paint brush,lacquer-thinner and a light rubbing with "Scotch-Brite". For similar reasons the slide-bores and needle-pistons were left alone with only a cleaning using lacquer-thinner and a soft cloth.
Also note the last pictures regarding the choke pick-up tube. I was lucky in finding the jet when it blew out under air-pressure cleaning. A heavy towel on my work-bench caught it and saved me a lot of additional work! I suspect the tiny split may have been from years of stress from the jet being pressed into the end. This jet is critical! Without it there is no metered flow of fuel to and through the choke passages.
The final check to assure clear-flow through all the passage ways will be done with lacquer-thinner (to dissolve and flush anything remaining in the galleries) using the syringe you saw in the previous pictures. Once confirmed flowing and clean the final polishing and painting can take place.
The Philips-heads of 2 of the carb-bowl drain-screws were in rough shape and I dislike Philips-heads anyway, so I silver-soldered a socket-head onto them. The idle-air screws will receive a similar treatment.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
Last edit: 10 years 2 days ago by scotch.
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- Kawboy
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10 years 2 days ago #5477
by Kawboy
Replied by Kawboy on topic Carb rebuild continues with some cautionary notes.
Awesome work you're doing here. Really impressed and thank you for documenting your rebuild with such dedication . Love the pics with all the critical notations. You're obviously a master and I will be pulling up this thread when I rebuild my carbs. I have a basket case that I bought 10 years ago and moved houses 5 times. Now I'm getting in to the rebuild.
Again, Thanks for posting the thread!!
Again, Thanks for posting the thread!!
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- BigSix
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10 years 2 days ago #5478
by BigSix
Z1300 A1/ KZT30AG built 1979
frame KZT30A 004285
engine KZT30A 000288
location: borderland-triangle France/ Germany/ Switzerland, Europe
Replied by BigSix on topic Carb rebuild continues with some cautionary notes.
Yeah, absolutely pro - this is carburettor-porn, in any positive way, thanks for posting it.
Holger
Holger
Z1300 A1/ KZT30AG built 1979
frame KZT30A 004285
engine KZT30A 000288
location: borderland-triangle France/ Germany/ Switzerland, Europe
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