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Hello fellow Z1300 enthusiasts 7 years 10 months ago #13073

  • Z1300rider
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:( This is not so easy; it weighs a ton, at least when you are trying to hold it at the polishing wheel it weighs a lot, and is made from pretty much the roughest piece of garbage casting I have come across. It is getting there slowly but, I think time spent away from trying to finish it, into time prepping the casting maybe time well spent. I am going to spend a little beer assisted time attacking this with some sandpaper in an attempt to get it somewhere near smooth enough to let the polishing wheel do its job.
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Hello fellow Z1300 enthusiasts 7 years 10 months ago #13081

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Just to get the picture straight; the Sunox paint needs its own primer which is white and is super good at covering whatever you are going to spray. Cheers Marc.

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Hello fellow Z1300 enthusiasts 7 years 10 months ago #13085

  • biltonjim
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It would save a huge amount of work if you had the final drive housing smoothed by the vibratory finishing process, assuming it can be used for aluminium castings. The only thing is, you would probably have to strip the housing of its parts first.

This is quite interesting:


polishinghelp.blogspot.co.uk/2007/06/pol...irror-finishing.html

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Hello fellow Z1300 enthusiasts 7 years 10 months ago #13111

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My carbs failed the leak test which means,on this bike, that any overflow of fuel will end up in the inlet manifold or in the airbox- not good. To that end I have just finished fitting the three new float valves I got from Allens Performance. I will pit pictures here because although they are very high quality items, they are slightly different to manufacturers OE spec.



As you can see the valves are slightly shorter which means they will not close when the chamber fills with fuel. On the Z13 the floats must be set so that the valve will shut the fuel off with the float in the level position. To get this to happen Ihad to reshape the tab on the float that actuates the needle valve.



The valve bodies themselves are slightly different and have a second O-ring that goes under the horse shoe shaped valve holder. The valve bodies are a satisfyingly snug fit in the carb bodies.

Next I ran the tops and bowls through the polishing wheel and finished them off with a set of new stainless bolts bought off Ebay for next to nothing
The final things to do were to reassemble the choke parts and leak test them again. Thankfully they have stood there all day with petrol above them and not leaked a drop. Job done B)

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Hello fellow Z1300 enthusiasts 7 years 10 months ago #13113

  • kza13
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Yeh I bought a cheaper carb kit ages ago, all seemed well till the motor filled with fuel, and this is with a sidecar on so the bike never "leaned" when parked, turned out it was the "horseshoe clip" on the valve that came with the kit, it was narrow at the top where the valve dropped thru and it hung up a valve which in turn caused the flooding, put the old original complete valves back in and never had a problem since, I see your valves have a good wide clip so they seem better quality than the cheap ones I got, cheers Pete.
after tuesday even the calendar goes WTF
1979 KAWASAKI Z1300 A1 WITH A DJP SIDECAR
Frame No: KZT3OA003911
Engine No: KZT3OAE004153
Location: Queensland Australia

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Hello fellow Z1300 enthusiasts 7 years 10 months ago #13119

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Hi Pete, I am worried that could happen with mine too, what I am aiming to do is use the main fuel tap to close when the engine is not running and a second inline tap that can be shut off if the bike is not going to be used for a while.

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