TOPIC:

I needed a way to close off the piston bore so I could glass bead the caliper and to keep the new paint, out.
A lid from a plastic fuel tank with a piece of heavy fabric worked perfectly
.

Did you find the source of your leak Scotch?

I believe the leak was caused by my allowing the pads to wear down beyond where I have normally changed them in the past. My theory is that the piston seal now had to travel into "New territory", beyond where it was typically seated/sealing for all these years. My bad ! They were probably due at this point, anyway. The bores and pistons were in excellent condition with only some minor pitting in the groove of the piston used for securing the dust boot.

If you've never rebuilt your calipers, this is worth watching.
.
Delboy's Garage, Motorcycle Front Brake Caliper rebuild Part 1.

Pay attention at 14:43

from: "Powerhouse Automotive (UK) Ltd" -
A complete front calipers rebuild kit with seals, piston dust-boot, bolt dust boots, new bleeders c/w caps, banjo-washers, anti-chatter rubbers and a pack of seal/piston grease.

They make a specific reference to tightening the bleeders: <Ignore Kawasaki and Suzuki recommendations for 7.5 - 7.8Nm torque on 7mm bleeds - This is close to the shearing of the screw. Honda and triumph only recommend 6nm for stronger 8mm screws. About 4Nm is usually plenty for 7mm bleeds - only turn far enough to seal - no more"

Contrary to "Delboy's Garage, Motorcycle Front Brake Caliper rebuild Part 1. video", These seals have no discernible taper and there is NO reference to such with the instructions supplied with this seal kit.