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TOPIC: Brake bleeding

Brake bleeding 1 month 2 weeks ago #15866

  • scotch
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Some recent dialogue about bleeding brakes prompts a concern which hasn't been mentioned. Dust-caps should always be installed to prevent dirt and debris from getting into the open end of the nipple. Any dirt around or in these bleeders can potentially enter the caliper causing leaks, so make certain they are clean before proceeding!
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1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997

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Brake bleeding 1 month 2 weeks ago #15878

  • Kawboy
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Totally agree with you Scotch. One could say bleeding brakes in reverse flow is an abnormal maintenance activity, although necessary. If there was an crud in the bleeder fitting, it would get pushed into the brake system and that's not good. Best to keep those rubber caps in place and replace them when they get soft and oversized.

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Kayboy John's building 1980 KZ1300 A2 in Candy Glory Red, complete with a duck tail tailpiece and a DG pipe. Stay tuned!!!

Brake bleeding 4 weeks 1 day ago #16065

  • usakz1300
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I am a firm believer in doing it a bit different than pushing fluid AND air down the hoses. I use a device I built to fill the calipers up to the inlet ports and hoses, and up to the master. It is basically a pump type oil can filled with brake fluid. When I get the system filled, fluid up into the reservoir via the bleed port, I let the system sit for a few minutes, then, come back and remove the master from the bar, or, tilt the bar do the bleed port is the highest point, and gently pump the brake lever until all the air has been expelled through the bleed port.

It works well for me, and, the time it takes, is short, compared to pushing air down the system and out the calipers.

Also, I don't use the KZ calipers on my bikes, they don't work as well as I like. The EX, and other 600cc range Kawasaki sport bikes have systems that use a dual piston caliper, and with a simple adapter, work well on our disks. Just feels, and stops a whole bunch better than stock. Standard 13 master works, as well.
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Brake bleeding 3 weeks 3 days ago #16104

  • hillsy
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usakz1300 wrote: I am a firm believer in doing it a bit different than pushing fluid AND air down the hoses. I use a device I built to fill the calipers up to the inlet ports and hoses, and up to the master. It is basically a pump type oil can filled with brake fluid. When I get the system filled, fluid up into the reservoir via the bleed port, I let the system sit for a few minutes, then, come back and remove the master from the bar, or, tilt the bar do the bleed port is the highest point, and gently pump the brake lever until all the air has been expelled through the bleed port.

It works well for me, and, the time it takes, is short, compared to pushing air down the system and out the calipers.

Also, I don't use the KZ calipers on my bikes, they don't work as well as I like. The EX, and other 600cc range Kawasaki sport bikes have systems that use a dual piston caliper, and with a simple adapter, work well on our disks. Just feels, and stops a whole bunch better than stock. Standard 13 master works, as well.


I've been using a 50cc syringe with a small length of clear hose to reverse bleed systems for many years now. Cheap and works really well once you get the hang of it.

The beauty of the syringe is you can either push or pull the fluid through the bleed nipple as many times as you like to ensure all the air is gone - and there is minimal wastage.
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