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Its a long time since I had the forks apart but a leaky O-ring on the plug at the top could whistle as the forks compress the air getting expelled might do that and it would account for it continuing after you stop as the air goes back in.

patlem wrote: ok tested the bike with new brakes and all , noise still there and even stays on a little bit after I stop fully ??? could it be the tach or speedo cable making that high pitch noise ??? I am not a newbie , been restoring quite a few old kawis , well let you know w
hen I find the problem [ whenever we get another nice weekend here in NY]

It's common for the speedo, tach, or both to make noise while they are turning. Remove the tach cable from the instrument and see if the noise goes away. If the noise is still present, reconnect it and do the same with the speedo.

While you are coming to a stop, you could be hearing the noise coming out of one of the instruments as they wind down.

It's important to lube the tach and speedo cables once a year to keep them from rusting and corroding.

These instruments are so old, they tend to get noisy to the point of destruction if it progresses too far.

Last week I installed an NOS speedo (Ebay purchase) because my instrument fell apart with age last year.

ok I found it. this loud noise was coming from my speedo cable, cant believe how much noise a worn cable can make, will get a new one and hope the problem does not end up in my instrument panel . thanks to all . Pat

I just ordered a new speedo cable from Kawasaki $18.00 in the states. They are still available from the manufacturer.

Sometimes it pays to check the dealership to see of parts are still available. The same cable new on StealBay was almost $40.00.

Hello , my engine cut off switch on the right handle bar just doesn't cut off my engine [second swicht ] checked the wiring all the way under the tank , all good , where should I look next before I take everything apart ? any connection in the headlight? am a little bit at a loss of where to look next .any idees are appreciated . thank you .Pat

The kill switch can be problematic.

You can take the cluster apart and clean it with electrical contact cleaner. Be careful to not loose any of the springs, wire guides, or small screws. It's a fairly simple task.

Try disassembling the switch and cleaning it first. I recently had to order a replacement cluster off of Ebay due to my kill switch was broken and I was not able to repair it. That Bake-O-Lite material can be pretty brittle.

After cleaning it, take some Die-Electric gel to the rocker area of the copper contact. It will help keep the corrosion away, which is what usually keeps these switches from working.

Also while you are in there, make sure the solder joints are ok. Test them with a meter.

T.