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Sure thing. I'll dig it out tomorrow and post a pic.

Comparing the bearings, the one is a LOT worse off than I thought. The oil oriface hole is plugged and wore over. Journal on the shaft still looks good, but the one side will definitely need replaced. The other side could use it, too.

Yeh bearings are the same size as the mains, I chewed the end one (beside the clutch) out, it also flogged out the cases, bike was still running though, so after asking the German shop guy about them he sent bearings for the mains and the secondary all in one packet, they are all the same, swapped cases, put in new bearings all round and she is still running. You know the problem with fixing your own bike ?, well I have this problem anyway, every little vibration or rattle or clunk gets you thinking of all the stuff that can go wrong internally and your brain starts to imagine this wrong and that wrong, maybe I should get a Bluetooth headset and play music real loud when i'm riding

Got a few photos of the bearing in question, along with the journal on the shaft itself.

Definitely glad I was able to take a look in here now.

Yup, the Babbitt melted and when it cooled off it froze in the oil supply hole. I'm not sure here and someone can verify my thinking here it would be appreciated, but it would appear that the lower shell half of the bearing has a groove and probably the oil supply hole is in the lower half of the crankcase. That being said I assume that you took a pic of the upper shell half of the bearing. So the hole in the bearing where the Babbitt got deposited is not backed up in the upper half of the crankcase with a hole.
This particular bearing overheated. Lucky for you it didn't spin in the case or you'd be faced with the same dilemma as Lucien Harpress and looking for a new crankcase.

I see in the pic of the secondary shaft that you've had some of the copper from the bearing plate out on the journal. I would suggest that you find yourself a couple of sheets of wet and dry sandpaper in either 2000 grit or 3000 grit and polish out the copper using the paper and engine oil. Most people think wet and dry is only to be used with water, but with oil is fine too. The object here is to just remove the copper from the journal. don't get too worried about under sizing the journal. Just pay attention as your cleaning off the journal and as soon as the copper disappears you can stop. If you have an outside mic you can check the journal diameter, but you should be fine. The bearing sacrificed itself. Enem if you were to polish the shit out of it, using the 2000 or 3000 you'd be lucky to remove .0002" off the diameter.

Next you need to find the blockage in the oil feed. If there was more than one journal bearing (Main or conrod) damaged I would expect that someone ran it with low or no oil. Low oil doesn't get a chance to cool and Babbitt melts at 430 - 465 deg. F. Engine oil running temps generally speaking should be kept at 200 deg. F. so, one bearing damaged and the rest are fine, look for a blockage in the oil flow to that journal.

"...or you'd be faced with the same dilemma as Lucien Harpress..."

There, there, now, John! It's OK. I'm getting old, too, and sometimes forget who I'm talking to, too!

OK, John, I'll shut up! (for now!)

OK, here's a really wild idea that I will throw out there.

From the pic it's hard to tell if that's just copper deposited on that shaft journal, or if it has actually been damaged. Hoping for the former.

IF it's just copper, and IF you are a gun collector, then use your electrolosis bore cleaner set to remove all of the copper without hurting the journal at all. You would need to build a little clay dam around the journal to hold the solution, then form a wire to wrap around the journal. It also might take a bit more fluid than what comes in the usual gun kit.