TOPIC:

Great questions ! 
Epoxy ?  Tried to make an intelligent choice.  Mix exact parts, mix thoroughly -  then mix some more.  Clean the pieces thoroughly and clean again.  The rubber wheel bore, grips what's left of the teeth on the sprocket which had enough texture and gripping surface so nothing other then cleaning was done.  The raised edge (flange) was retained to aid in keeping the tire centered.  The relief in each side of the tire accommodates the hub flanges and adds to the surface area the epoxy can utilize.  The tire fit quite snuggly on it's own.  Filled the hub and pre-coat the inside surfaces of the tire,  a "trick" to get it over the hub without removing the epoxy and when it was in position and released ,  lots of excess epoxy came out.  No doubt there are no voids.

Material hardness?  I used the finger-nail durometer method !  Index finger on each hand.   one hand -Indent OEM.....other hand - indent sample.  They felt the same.  Next day both finger nails hurt the same.  Good to Go !   

Could this roller be used, with adaptation?  It already has a needle roller bearing, so assuming it is a J78 , the roller would just need the profile flattening off. Not sure about the width though.

www.cybike.co.uk/Shop/Products/all-produ...places-oem-12048-001

Jim,
That tensioning arm you've shown uses the roller mentioned in a previous post and as I remember it, the bore for the pin is 13mm and is a plain bearing. The J78 bearing needs a 11mm pin

Regarding the use of an alternative model Kawasaki CCT roller - or any similar product:

Such a roller would be the better choice as the tire would be vulcanized to the steel hub. I would have a concern about the hub being hardened steel given it's basically a bushing spinning on the steel "pin" (axle).  Enlarging the "bushing" bore could be problematic.  Drilling?  Not a comfortable thought.  Reaming?  Similar concern.  I think this would be a "Machine-shop" task.  I can't think of any other way to fit a J78 needle bearing.   Perhaps a more practical idea would be to utilize the plain bearing roller as is and simply enlarge the respective holes in the CCT frame to accommodate the 13mm "axle.  Reducing the overall diameter (rubber) would be easy.  The only other concern would be the width of the bushing in the alterative part. Terrific if it's the same width  as the 1300. 
 

The cam chain roller I gave the link to is stated as having a roller bearing fitted.  I could order one since they are available from a British source, and give an exact report on dimensions etc.. If / when I start work on my own 1300, I'll probably need one of these rollers anyway.

Fellas, We have a great dialogue going on here !
Biltonjim: That's a generous offer. That would very helpful unless someone out there has one on their bench or more likely in a parts bin? If so, a width measurement would be greatly appreciated.
Keeping things "transparent"; I realized I was discounting the use of the KZ1000 roller because of a Bearing vs Needle Roller prejudice. In the grand scheme of things a bushing is more then acceptable and it's not like there's a lack of lubrication !
I looked carefully at my CCT frame and increasing the holes from 11 mm to 13 mm to accommodate the larger Pin creates no concerns for me. There is still substantial material at the narrowest portion AND this is a moot point because the thrust force is directed to the back(?) of the frame. The round hole could be drilled. The "registered" hole - I'd enlarge with some files.
I believe this is viable !
Thanks kawboy Biltonjim.

Scotch,   Initially I've messaged the seller asking for the width of the roller, and confirmation that it has a roller bearing. I'll order one if I receive a favorable reply.

I wonder what made Kawasaki choose to use a needle roller on this part for the 1300, but a plain bush on the  650 / 900 / 1000.