TOPIC:

LareNurminen wrote: I have used the original tensioner with one modification. I have changed the 6 mm. original limiter bolt to one which is ca. 10 mm longer and have a locknut in it. I set the tensioner when engine is hot and then use the longer bolt to lock the shaft, tighten the locknut. Then check once every 3000 miles/5000 km. Has worked fine for me the past 30.000 km.

Interesting Lare. So basically you're using the spring pressure to adjust the tension and then locking down the adjusted tensioner. If you make the adjustment when the engine is hot then the adjustment would be correct when hot but are you not concerned about the tension of the chain being too tight when the engine is cold? Might it not be better to do the "adjustment" when the engine is cold and then when the engine is warm/hot, allow the chain to run slightly loose? I would think the nylon tensioner gear would rather run with a slightly loose chain rather than a slightly tight chain.

Raygun wrote: Where did you buy the new gear?

That is a very good point, was it a NOS gear or was it bought new? The newer ones were supposed to be made from an uprated nylon.

Raygun,

The new gear is sourced and manufactured in South Africa by the gentleman who is rebuilding two motors for me. 1 x Z and 1 x KZ. He comes highly recommended and is very knowledgeable on the 1300's. He has certain spares sourced and manufactured locally in South Africa. He has ok'd me to pass on his details. His contact details are: Name - Tertius Buys, Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Phil,

You are correct, the newer gears are an improved nylon version of the early original gears. The worn gear in the photo is an early original.

Sorry folks, I used a ZZR1100 Tensioner, not a ZZR1000!

Bill, I see we can edit very recent posts, but not slightly older ones. I tried to edit my initial post regarding above, but alas, was unable too! I am assuming that once a member has replied or commented on a previous/slightly older post, that's it, you can't edit. Makes sense!

Has anyone seen the KWIK Manuel cam chain tensioner? Ebay # 251658759275
or is their definitively a preference for a different one.
used to belts on the Ducatis for so long now, seems like 1300,s system involves a lot of mucking around
then see if i can order via Phills SA connection the harder nylon idler gear as i read about the noise the Liska initially makes, seems somewhat disconcerting, though 2 metallic objects in running contact will always be more nosier than 1 metallic 1 Nylon
should that sort all issues relating to that side of engine?, not a problem yet just precautionary measure.
bike shows 18000 miles on clock, but suspect the engine is a transplant, frame says KZT30B engine says KZT30AKawasaki NZ advised that is not a correct match, but cant get info here on the bike.
it hasn't started in some 5yrs ill completely strip carbs and rebuild, any other major issues i should consider before running her up?
cheers Dion

I might suggest you take a look at the ignition coils for cracks in the housing. Being tucked up tight under the fuel tank, they don't see a lot of air movement to keep them cool and sitting right about the engine are subject to a lot of rising heat. The plastic housing seems to suffer due to those effects. if you have a problem it will be most evident. The Cracks in all 3 of my coils were 3 inches long and about 1/8 inch wide. You'd have to be blind to miss them. The consequences are 20 minutes into a ride and you've got an engine miss from a couple of dead sparkplugs. Then you're washing down the cylinders with raw fuel. Not good. I don't need to explain this to you. You ran in the GP circuit. I'm envious.
Primary/secondary chain slop might be a problem depending on the previous owner's riding style and maintenance schedule. Can't say for sure. Oil changes and proper oil quality can make a huge difference. I would be checking the fore aft crankshaft movement before seeing the movement in the output shaft or listening for a chain slap on the lower engine casing when rotating the crankshaft clockwise/counterclockwise. I've seen pics of a lower engine case that got chewed up by a loose chain. There's no adjustment, only replacement of the chain. I managed to get Ramsey Chain in South Carolina USA to manufacture 2 chains for me. Cost around $450.00 US dollars for the 2. I haven't split the cases yet to install the new chains but will be doing it in the spring I hope. God willing and get the HoneyDo list off my back #@$#@.She comes up with more "projects" for me to do all the time. Just finished laying 500 square feet of click vinyl tiles in the storage/furnace room of a 3 year old house "just to help keep the dust down" Happy wife, happy life. (for her)