TOPIC:

I am just in the process of working up enough courage to remove the cylinder block, my first time ever . Our trusty manual states that part of the process is removing the camshaft chain tensioner and on page 60 there is a cautionary note which states: -

2. Do not turn over the crankshaft while the camshaft
chain. tensioner is removed. This could upset the
camshaft chain timing, and damage the engine.

Duly noted by me, normally I might miss this type of thing. Anyway after removing the cylinder head of course you need to install it again and this is where the confusion arises for me. On page 75 of the same manual it states: -

Lifting up the camshaft and timing chains so they do
not get caught, turn the crankshaft so that #3 and
#4 pistons are at T.D.C. position.

Now if your not familiar with page 75 it describes installation of the cylinder head and the above paragraph is definitely before the timing chain is re-installed. What the!! Am I missing something here (again). My balls just shrunk back to their normal size and all the courage to remove the cylinder head has gone westward.

Can I turn the crankshaft while the camshaft chain tensioner is removed without upsetting timing and damage the engine or not?? If you could shed any light on this I would be most thankful.

If the tensioner is removed and the crank is turned, the lack of tension can cause the timing chain to jump teeth without you knowing. Then when you try to start the engine with the valve timing off the pistons can hit a valve and we all know what happens then.

If you are removing the head and block your timing needs to be reset anyways when you reinstall the chain, block and heads. Turning the crank with nothing on top won't hurt anything because there is nothing to hit.

I'm not sure about the re-installation procedure when it comes to rotating the crank so the pistons are at TDC. From what I gather you would rotate the pistons to TDC while the chain is held away from the cam chain gear so the cam doesn't turn when trying to reach TDC. You'd then rotate the cam so the valve timing position matches and then slip the chain into place and put the tensioner in. Then you would go through the rest of the timing procedure.

I am not the authority on this since I've not done that part myself. I'd wait for clarification before proceeding.

If the camshafts are off, it doesn't matter. Spin it to your heart's content- so long as the chain doesn't bind up with anything, you're fine. You WILL need to set the crank to a certain position when you reinstall the camshafts, and I'm fairly certain it is TDC. This exact procedure is covered in the manual, bit of you need help with that let us know.

There is only one sprocket the cam chain is connected to on the bottom (so no worry skipping teeth), and with no camshaft the valves are all closed anyway (so the pistons cannot hit them). Heck, when I did my top end I just dropped the chain down into crankcase and fished it out with a magnet when I was ready for it. If you don't split the cases there's nowhere for it to go.

I am not sure that the 1300 will do this but on many bikes I have worked on if you drop the chain or let it slack after removing the cams there is a chance of the chain doubling up under the crankshaft sprocket and being damaged if the crank is turned then the big danger is that a damaged chain can break when the engine is again running. I routinly tie them up so it cant happen.

Thanks for the tips gentlemen. With instilled confidence I have successfully removed the timing chain and water pump drive shaft. A new educational opportunity now exists for me to remove the cylinder block as it won't budge. All pistons move freely and I have removed the 4 bolts that reside underneath the intake manifold (when engine is assembled). So I tried the rubber mallet technique with no luck and was wondering the next best technique to try. Plenty of google research is always done before I hit the forum up for insights and some of the suggestions from my google searches I flat-out just don't understand and the ones I do understand I was hoping to get some feedback on.

Heating with a blow torch?
Single head razor blades around the base gasket?
Cut two blocks of 3/4" wood to fit inside the cylinders, on top of the pistons. Bolt a bar across the cylinders with the head bolts. Then gently turn the crank so that the pistons push the blocks into the bar, and it will lift the cylinders right off?


This is one I don't understand: -
Get a 1/2" SAE open spanner and use it to gently "cam" between the crankcase and tappet block locating bolts, working 'fore and 'aft between intake and exhaust.

First things first- make sure EVERYTHING is disconnected. Simple thing, but it's good to cover the basics. When yousay you've removed the water pump drive shaft, I'm guessing it's the one running left to right? You've also dropped the small chain that runs it as well, correct? (The shaft that runs front to back between cylinders 3 and 4 can be left alone).

If all that is correct, then I'm a fan of using a large putty knife to get in between the crankcase and the bores to help break things loose. I'd start at the back where the water pump and (if a 79-89) ignition timing stuff lives, as there's more room to get under and pry. I made sure to get right where the gasket was, tapped it a few times with a hammer to get it in between the parts, then gently pried a little. You may have to work your way around the entire joint before something busts loose, but once it does it should lift off relatively easily.

Combine the above with judicious use of a rubber mallet, and you should be okay.