TOPIC:

Kawboy wrote:
Usually the clutch baskets are riveted on to a steel machined hub and I suspected the rivets have loosened up. .

The 1300 clutch basket just has a splined centre that slides up to the bearing, it could be the splines wearing if the engine has been out of tune for a long time maybe.. it would be worth pulling the clutch to pieces just to be sure.

Thank you gents,

I'm now in the process of removing the clutch basket, but jeez, now I am after a clutch basket/hub holder that fits and all the ones I've found are only 5 inches - Not big enough for the Z1300. I have seen warnings about loading up the 'trans' and the possibility of doing damage to the 'dogs', so I should do it the right way I guess? I know you can make one from an old/spare clutch plate but I don't have one of those.

I don't have an impact wrench and now trying to decide whether to invest in one - Talk about the bottomless pit! So at this stage I feel that I won't get it sorted before Christmas unless I find a way to remove the clutch basket and see if the splines are the problem.

Yaegunp wrote: Thank you gents,

I'm now in the process of removing the clutch basket, but jeez, now I am after a clutch basket/hub holder that fits and all the ones I've found are only 5 inches - Not big enough for the Z1300. I have seen warnings about loading up the 'trans' and the possibility of doing damage to the 'dogs', so I should do it the right way I guess? I know you can make one from an old/spare clutch plate but I don't have one of those.

I don't have an impact wrench and now trying to decide whether to invest in one - Talk about the bottomless pit! So at this stage I feel that I won't get it sorted before Christmas unless I find a way to remove the clutch basket and see if the splines are the problem.

Just a thought Paul, Page 87 in the manual pic E153 what if you remove circlip #9, washer #10 and spring plate pusher #11 and left the rest of the clutch intact and put a strap wrench on the outer diameter of the clutch basket down near the base of the hub to hold the clutch while you remove the nut. That would use the clutch plates and friction plates to hold the inner hub while you remove the nut. Disassemble the rest of the clutch after that. .The only concern here is that the fiber friction plate tabs will bear some load so a little care here and I think you'll be fine.

KB

Ok, I invested in a cordless impact wrench which made the job of removing the clutch nut a breeze. The Clutch basket needed the the three 8mm bolts to remove, right to the last .05mm, therefore it is safe to say there was no wearing of the splines. As my dear old father would say 'tight as a fish's bum!'

I can see one of the chains and I will post a video of that very shortly. See you soon.

Here is the chain I spoke about and looks like a fair bit of slack there! Kudos to Kawboy as his unfailing ears spotted the noise as chain slap and it could be that he was right. I assume that I would be better off with a worn spindle than a stretched chain (if that's what it is?) I guess there is no way of remedying this without splitting the engine?

Chain Slack << Click Here

Yaegunp wrote: Here is the chain I spoke about and looks like a fair bit of slack there! Kudos to Kawboy as his unfailing ears spotted the noise as chain slap and it could be that he was right. I assume that I would be better off with a worn spindle than a stretched chain (if that's what it is?) I guess there is no way of remedying this without splitting the engine?

Chain Slack << Click Here

Sorry to hear/see this. That's too bad, but give yourself a pat on the back for hearing this noise and NOT accepting the noise as being normal as suggested by the previous owner that sold this bike to you.

I'm curious, if you rotate the shaft back and forth, can you hear the chain slapping off of the bottom half of the crankcase??


Page 191 in the service manual shows a chain stretch measurement you can take when the crankcase is split. The vertical slack do not exceed is 21mm which sounds like a lot. Your screwdriver test as shown on your video shows the vertical movement near the driven gear on the clutch basket shaft and I suspect your vertical slack if measured in the center of the chain was to be done, your chain is well beyond the limit.

The only fix for this is engine removal and splitting the cases. Lucien-Harpress for one will tell you it's a big job, but not as daunting as it looks.

This is probably a fine example of what could happen if the bike was run with low oil levels. The chain is only lubricated with splash/immersion lubrication and in the case of chains, the primary function of the lubricant is lubricating the link plates and pins in the chain and removing heat.

Good luck with this Paul. I hope to see you tackle this and post your progress.
KB