TOPIC:

Does any body have some photos of a oil cooler set up that they can send to me so I find the best way to do it as I am about to fit a sidecar to my bike and it will help to keep it cooler in the hot weather.

Hello Templer,

I posted this a number of months ago. You may find it interesting. My parts have all arrived now, but it will be some time before I actually get down to doing anything due to work commitments. I decided to run an external electric oil pump to avoid the possible drop in pressure if I linked into the main system the main system. I have decided not to take an extra oil feed from the relief valve as mentioned in the link.

www.kz1300.com/media/kunena/attachments/...kiZ1300OilCooler.jpg

Good luck with your project anyway and keep us posted.

Cheers

Craig

Hi Templer,

...and here is my write up on my thoughts as per my post a few months ago....

"""Firstly, forgive my rambling on.


When I built the tow behind trailer for my bike, I had a stainless steel cowling fabricated to direct more air through my radiator and assist with a extra cooling. (Pictures in Photo Gallery section). This mod has worked extremely well and maintains the coolant temp fractionally below centre on the gauge, towing a packed trailer in + 95degF ambient temperatures, at a cruising speed of +/- 75 - 80mph. My problem now is that my oil temperature with the extra load etc. is certainly a lot hotter than what I believe we would deem as a normal operating temperature. I have not actually measured the oil temperature, but based on the following, have come to my conclusion:
1. I use silkolene 20W50 oil
2. Normal use of my bike (without trailer) stop/start in and around town, high speed highway runs etc. the oil pressure warning light may flicker on/off at idle (8-900rpm)
3. when towing the trailer the light will come on permanently at idle and only go off at around 12-1300 rpm!!!
4. My relief valve appears to be working as stated in the manual - cracking slightly over 5bar.

This lead me to the conclusion that the hotter than normal oil will obviously have a lot less viscosity, be a lot thinner causing my pressure drop!

I have read posts where our members have spoken about header wrap and the like to direct excess heat from the headers and exhaust away from the block and sump, but there is the concern of damaging the headers. Most of our members talk about DG pipe etc. which I don't have! I have a Cowley 6 into 1 and have no idea if the headers will withstand the excess heat retention once I wrap them, so I have now decided to install an after-market oil cooler and will explain my thought process below, but would love to get some input (thumbs up or criticism) from our fellow technically minded members prior.

Parts I want to purchase for Mod

1. 10 Row Oil Cooler
2. 3.7 GPM 12v Oil scavenge gear pump
3. AN6 SS braided hose and relative fittings
4. small 'spin on' oil filter
5. thermo fan switch On 85DegC - Off 80degC

Installation:

Place Oil cooler below radiator. Oil suction to come from a modified 'O' ring sealed banjo fitting replacing existing sump plug. Run hose from sump plug fitting through to small spin on filter with custom machined filter head, to gear pump and then on to the oil cooler. From oil cooler back to a second modified 'O' ring sealed banjo fitting replacing our oil filler plug on clutch housing. So in a nut shell, take oil from the sump plug, cool it and then feed it back into the clutch housing.

Operation:

To maintain a normal operating temperature, we don't want the oil pump running continuously, so a thermo switch is fitted in the sump and connected through a relay to the pump - starting and stopping the pump as and when required.

I have also given thought to the fact that the pump may still kick in and out frequently with this set up and then pondered on the thought of machining a custom relief valve (replacing the OEM valve) that can be installed with a fitting to direct 'overflow oil' out to the oil cooler line, T'd in after the gear pump. The relief valve should vent some oil at normal cruising speed and therefore should add a little extra cooling of the oil, preventing the gear pump from kicking in and out as frequently. Obviously there is a lot of machining and mods to the sump to accommodate my thought process.

Placement of the Oil Pump and filter:

The stock air box will be removed, and converted to pod filters as described by zed_thirteen (thank you zed_thirteen) in the carburettor section. The now free space in front of the battery will accommodate the pump and filter.

I hope all makes sense to our members and would really like to get some feed-back.

I have attached a basic circuit diagram, but note that I haven’t yet finalised the fittings required, so please don’t take those as confirmed yet."""

Sounds like it could be a great mod. I lack the technical knowledge to offer anything more.

I can't answer for any of the 1300's except for the ZN1300 Voyagers. But, my first one was an '83 A3. I had a Motorvation Spyder sidecar hooked to it and also pulled a relatively heavy trailer a lot with it, and never had even the normal heat problems that the Voyagers are known for (see my avatar pic for this rig). After about 50,000 miles I did start experiencing slight heat problems pulling so much weight, so I added an inline water pump to the upper hose to help increase flow and that kept my temps barely above thermostat settings, even in hot weather and pulling the trailer. I didn't want to tamper with the oil system. I prefer not to introduce anything to expose the oil flow to possible damage and loss.
Another slight mod that I did to help get rid of some heat was to wrap my pipes right behind the radiator with asbestos tape to block the radiation of the heat. It was the first step in eliminating the overheating and was successful, but the external auxiliary water pump got the water temp all the way down to thermostat setting (195).

Somebody mentioned adding and auxiliary oil pump. That would also be good for using to pre-oil the engine before cranking. I use one on my dune buggy mostly because my valve springs are high pressure and they collapse my lifters, so, to be sure my lifters are ready to correctly open the valves, my auxiliary oil pump brings the whole engine up to 45psi before I ever crank the engine over.
Another BIG advantage is that by pre-oiling you also separate the bearing shells from the crank journals before ever spinning the engine over. That's where about 80% of a street engine's wear comes from; the bearings rubbing the journals before oil pressure separates them.

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