TOPIC:

If you search back in this forum you'll find my submissions on dual fuel-line routing, carb.-floats, 2 center-stand mods., clutch arm mod. and the critical significance of cleaning the carbs thoroughly along some simple tools for balancing carbs. hope these help.

Had similar issues with starting as well with mine. Became a thing of the past after I cleaned the starter motor, upgraded the coils, and cleaned/adjusted the carbs.

Here are some pictures I had on file. A few things: Dual fuel-line, Front forks air-manifold and gauge, Clutch lock-out switch removed, Handlebar switch wiring run inside handlebars,Front-shock air valve covers, Steel braided brake lines, Instrument cluster all LED lighting,LED tail lights and rear signals (front signals original tungsten bulbs act as ballast resistor), DG header/stock air-filter (no re-jetting!), GM coil, S&W rear air shocks with home made manifold (Air-gauge and filler behind left side cover), Next to fuse block is a remote charge jack for a standard wall-charger, Modified clutch arm and "O"-ringed cover (see my article), tool-pouch between carbs and tranny-deck, nickel plated frame, swing-arm triple-clamp and various small parts, modified center-stand to fit DG and easier deployment (see my article). Home made brass carb floats (see my article)

Hope these give you some good ideas.

Nothin to see here, move along folks !

Sorry about the delayed response. I cleaned my starter switch, and it didn't help. I want to stress again that this problem only occurs after the bike has been sitting for a day or two. Once I'm on the road, it never happens. Would that be the case if it were bad electrical contacts? Something about the running engine (heat?lubrication?)seems to fix, temporarily, whatever the problem is . . .

Sorry for the need to clarify some redundancey:

When the bike is cold: (I going to assume that your starter button has a good electrical "low resistance" contact). So - Are you indicating that the starter-relay doesn't "Click" ? OR the starter-relay "clicks" (engages the high-amp contacts) but the starter does not spin?
OR
The starter relay "clicks" (and has good high-amp contact) but the starter doesn't spin OR only spins occasionally. ie: once every 3 pushes of the starter button?
After ensuring the MAIN fuse is in it's clips securely ensuring good electrical contact for the required down-stream voltage to the starter button; do a resistance check across the "Big" terminals of the starter-relay to determine it is contacting with no resistance. (measured with an ohm-meter. NOTE -Remove the "Big" cables from both "Big" terminals to do this test !

I understand it starts fine once running and warmed-up.

If you are getting good (LOW resistance) elec.contact at the starter-button and the starter relay is "clicking" every time with no appreciable measured resistance across the high-amp terminals but the starter-motor is not spinning - dissassemble the starter-motor and inspect the bearings, brushes and commutators. Clean the commutators, regardless. The armature "gear-end" can be "lightly" snugged in a drill press chuck and spun on a low speed to clean the commutators with "FINE" emery of "Scotch-Brite".DO NOT USE A FILE ! Common-sense has to prevail here ! You are just shining them - not re-cutting ! If this idea isn't your cup of tea then clean the comm.'s as best you can on the bench (with"FINE"emery or "Scotch-Brite". Check the brushes for chips, cracks,length,good spring tension and low-resistance electrical continuity from the commutator end of the brush back to the BIG input terminal on the starter-motor housing. Armature bearings must be smooth and free spinning. If you're capable they can be removed, cleaned and re-lubed - otherwise replace. A dead-spot in the armature can be found by doing a continuity check between each commutator plate and the armature shaft. There are too many good articles available to elaborate on here. The importance of clean electrical contacts and connections can not be over-stated.

As in a previous thread: The starter solenoid comes apart easier then it is removed. Check the 2 contacts (Inside) and the "buss-bar" (the heavy copper bar also inside) for corrosion, piting and freedom of travel. Clean and dress the contact areas as required. You are endeavouring to clean the contact areas without removing any signifigant amount of material. After cleaning and before re-installing put some power to the solenoid to engage the HI amp contacts and determine if there has been an appreciable reduction in the resistance readings.

One reason the bike will start easier when warmed-up will be less friction of the hot oil providing the starter-motor and engine less rotational resistance thereby giving a faster start RPM and perhaps a bit more juice for a hotter spark at the plugs. (The higher cold-start friction resistance will suck the life out of a battery if the entire bike isn't well tuned and eager to start in the first place. Once warmed up everything is "looser" for lack of a better word plus: The battery has also been getting a fresh (and full) charge from the alternator.

Hope this helps put some light on the question and didn't confuse !