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Rectifier/Regulator - Rewire directly to battery? 2 years 2 months ago #30087

  • Bucko
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Did not fuse.. OEM wiring doesn't use a fuse

I actually does though - it goes though the main fuse.
Hello from Canada's We(s)t coast.

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Rectifier/Regulator - Rewire directly to battery? 2 years 2 months ago #30088

  • Bucko
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.... "shunt" type regulator which demands as much current as it can from the stator/generator at all times - it does this by shorting to ground

 
OEM regulators of this vintage use thyristors or SCRs to 'shunt' current.  SCRs are 'unidirectional' devices. that is, when activated, they act like diodes and only conduct current in one direction.  This means only 1/2 the maximum output is shunted. effectively halving the alternator output.  I'm pretty sure you'd find your alternator is working harder - generating more heat - when the R/R is not in 'shunt' mode.  My own experience with fixed magnet alternators burning out is it always happens when the battery is weak - because the system is always 'charging' (and overheating the stator) rather than 'shunting' (which would drop the stator output by half - reducing the heat generated).

In any case, a solid state 'series type' regulator is certainly a viable option, and honestly, if they made a series type that was a direct plugin and mechanically the same as the OEM one, i.e. fitment, I'd go for that if I needed a replacement, but they're not without their own drawbacks (which may be trivial in this context). 
Hello from Canada's We(s)t coast.
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Rectifier/Regulator - Rewire directly to battery? 2 years 2 months ago #30095

  • dcarver220b
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.... "shunt" type regulator which demands as much current as it can from the stator/generator at all times - it does this by shorting to ground

 
OEM regulators of this vintage use thyristors or SCRs to 'shunt' current.  SCRs are 'unidirectional' devices. that is, when activated, they act like diodes and only conduct current in one direction.  This means only 1/2 the maximum output is shunted. effectively halving the alternator output.  I'm pretty sure you'd find your alternator is working harder - generating more heat - when the R/R is not in 'shunt' mode.  My own experience with fixed magnet alternators burning out is it always happens when the battery is weak - because the system is always 'charging' (and overheating the stator) rather than 'shunting' (which would drop the stator output by half - reducing the heat generated).

In any case, a solid state 'series type' regulator is certainly a viable option, and honestly, if they made a series type that was a direct plugin and mechanically the same as the OEM one, i.e. fitment, I'd go for that if I needed a replacement, but they're not without their own drawbacks (which may be trivial in this context). 
Great info. 1/2 wave rectification to 'ground', makes sense. If I get time, energy, will test theory using FLIR IR imaging on RR's. 

Bottom line? After running battery voltage direct, via relay, brown (isolated wire) at RR's, I have 14.3 VDC, solid. Apply heavy current loads, 14.3. Yes, this bike has the rare (for A1's) dual alternator kit. At idle, fan running, head light high beam, brakes on (with Vodesky brake light too!) drops to 13.2, AWESOME!

I would consider MOSFET RR if it was a direct physical replacement. But with two RR's and Igniter under that RHS cosmetic cover, space is very limited. 

Woo Hoo! 

 

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