TOPIC:

Guys that's great, Kawboy i know i know, proper spark in air at 10 bar is not something to take lightly when you talking about insulation. On the beginning of the project i have used some crappy ignition cables ya know.. whatever is lying around just to get you going. So the energy from the coil which suppose to jump across the electrodes instead has disappear in to the air along the wire, in dark i could completely see the glow around the cable and grounded screwdriver has acted like small collector of electrons hence Tax Collector , something similar to corona around the ceramic on the spark plug only along the cable. Than i thought this is why the engine is missing at high rpm's but later i have found out that this was not the only reason. That's why i started to test at such rigorous conditions and anything that failed somewhere along the way was not good enough to be used. You shall never again have wimpy ignition system Kawasaki !!! . OK I'm back. Yeah, to make the spark jump under not so wimpy conditions ya also need good spark plug, and now it comes: For anyone who have experienced unexplained better performance of the engine after fitting in it some magic iridium spark plugs following pictures will explain why, what you suspected was true. And one more thing to Kawboy, i never did change the standard gap on any of the tested plugs all tho i thing smaller gap would help to initialize the spark but than the life of the electrode would be shorter and that's not a good think for you kawaski, apart of that i really don like to bend the electrode on plugs, imagine it will break in the combustion chamber later at some 8000 rpm i once saw piston which happen to live through this. Kawboy thanks for taking part in the discussion and sharing. Scotch, it is you who is constantly inventing new stuff for the bike so i'm actually just taking example of it, and i must say sometimes you have truly inspired me. Stan i experienced the corrosion on the plugs under pressure of at least 5-7 bar sitting there for like two weeks and the air must be ionized to high degree, few sparks are not enough. When i build the pressure chamber i was thinking along the way how you restored the bike using simple stuff so did i reach the end with my project by using the same principal. One word of warning: In case somebody attempt to reproduce pressure chamber and fire the plugs in it important is to release the ionized air outside of the house because if you inhale ionized air it can and will damage you lungs it is really not good for you health. Agmonmarine, hi i saw once in here you posted picture of it, also i know of the guy who already build similar system long ago on his gpz750 if I'm not mistaking. I have read the information he have kindly provided to us in the process of learning and understanding ignition systems. I wanted to answer my self few questions which arose along the way so i had to make my own experience building it but as some other members here know I'm a diy freak, thanks for input.

First three pictures are taken under following conditions:
Spark plug BP6E-S
Pressure 9 Bar
Suply voltage at 14,6 Volt
One spark plug firing in pressure and the other one outside.







Now following three pictures conditions:
Spark plug BPR8EIX
Pressure 9 Bar
Suply voltage at 14,6 Volt
One spark plug firing in pressure and the other one outside.







Test equipment consisted of upgraded version of kawasaki ignition which means smaller ballast resistor (0,6 ohm), AW82-TRI ignition coil (primary resistance of 2,26 ohm) and standard igniter, source of the input signal standard Z13 rotor and coil. Spark plugs caps are with suppressing resistor fitted 5Kohm. Supply voltage 14,6 volt. I have try to set the standard system at its best setup for highest performance to see if new stuff can top it.







Ok guys thanks.

And there is a video i like to invite to, featuring new ignition in action, and also slipping clutch, probably due to wrong oil and at the time when the bike was still wobbly.
I hope you enjoy it guys.

I forgot to put the link in he he. Sorry.

So here is the picture of good and healthy ignition wave. There are some important points which we are going to compare later. Now for those who is not familiar with ignition waves some explanation.

First and most important: I'm discussing the secondary winding of the ignition coil in this example, so we don't mix stuff up and make it easily understandable for everyone.

Point 1, the transistor is open, nothing happens and voltage sits at for example 13,5 volt if you would be looking at the primary winding.

Point 2, the moment when the transistor of the igniter closes, Dwell begins.

Point 3, the transistor is closed and current flow begins. The oscillations depend on the type of transistor used but is not relevant here.

Point 4, the current flow charges the coil with energy.

Point 5, internal current limiting circuit takes over and cuts the current flow down.

Point 6, the time of current limiter being on, at high rpm's it will disappear.

Point 7, transistor from point 3 is now open, and electrons start to push across electrodes. Spark is initiated.

Point 8, oscillation due to R-C properties of the secondary winding.

Point 9, current is flowing between electrodes, there is a spark.

Point 10, the spark ends here.

Point 11, left over energy disappears with in the ignition coil.

That's a healthy spark of 9ms? What did you generate that with?

Kawboy where you got 9 miliseconds from? You mean number 9? Hmmm. The spark here is burning 1 milisecond on this example. In the left top corner i indicated this, t = 1 ms/division.

Daro wrote: Kawboy where you got 9 milliseconds from? You mean number 9? Hmmm. The spark here is burning 1 millisecond on this example. In the left top corner i indicated this, t = 1 ms/division.

I assumed each vertical bar was 10 ms and each graduation was 2 ms. But even that wouldn't make sense.
Carry on with your experiment/explanation while I sit here and learn. Really enjoying this topic and seeing where it goes.
Thanks
KB