TOPIC:

New to the group. What is the impedance of the coils resistor on my 81 kz1300a3 that's located under the fuel tank next to the coil for #2 & 5 coil? I ordered new coils but can't find any info in my service manual about the resistor.
Thanks

You can remove the resistor completely, just make sure that your new coils have primary side resistance of 2.5 ohms minimum. Lower ohm rating will burn the output transistors of the igniter.
I suspect that originally Kawasaki put the resistor there because they had warehouse full of old (1,2 ohm) coils.
Removing the resistor is done by connecting the single input cable to the three out going cables.

There was a whole discussion about this subject. The AW82 - TR1 used Honda coils I got were about 2.3 0hms each so I added in this case Bosh 0.4 0hm resistors to be on the safe side. I actually wanted 0.6 but they were unavailable. Best is to keep the total resistance within the per manual limits of 2.7 - 3.8 0hm.

LareNurminen commented: Removing the resistor is done by connecting the single input cable to the three out going cables.

If you can find a 4X male connector - it would be more preferable then hacking off the females ends and twisting/soldering. I hate to see harnesses hacked.
I couldn't find one so here's an idea - It took me 90 minutes to make this - somewhat rough but all that was required to show the idea.
Keeps the harness original and intact !





Clean up the ends and edges and file the four blades to size
Ballast resistor can be removed completely and this screwed down in place of.
If you have to ask which wires go where.......I can't help


YA ! Badger "got it" and thank you for acknowledging, Badger ! Makes my meager effort worthwhile !

What a wonderful thing to be blessed with such creativity, Scotch. To picture, in one’s mind, just what is needed to accomplish a task, and then, as in this case, think ‘ A crocodile clip will yield the necessary material’ is an admirable capability.

Thanks biltonjim. The obvious added benefit is all leads can be easily removed/replaced for diagnostic purposes !
For clarity: The piece required is from a discarded set of jumper-cables. The material used, in this case, was the correct gauge to accept the OEM female terminals used for the Ballast-Resistor. The piece required could be taken from a working set with no detriment - just slide the insulator back on the slightly shorten end.