TOPIC:

Anyone heard of this and/or point me in the right direction? My 1984 Voyager has a few issues, don't know if they're related but, started happening around the same time. 1. It starts just fine, however, the starter solenoid continues to get voltage and won't shut off until disconnected. Tested start switch and working as it should also replaced relay.
2. Exhaust popping out of one side at idle.
3. Fuel Gauge stopped working.
All that said, here's what's been done to bike: New Stators, Rectifiers, IC Ingitor, chassis ground cable,all have been checked/tested.
Has to be electrical issue somewhere? Any ideas/suggestions are greatly appreciated! Love this bike and want to keep it going.
Thank You in advance!

First off, let me introduce myself...I have been a motorcycle technician/mechanic for pretty much most of my life which pretty much is approaching the 40 yr mark in the industry. Started out working on my own machines, got a job at a Kawasaki dealership that changed hands a couple of times, was there for 11.5 years then moved on to working for Kawasaki Motors Corporatin for 14 years.
So in my 11.5 yrs in the dealership ,we became the ZN1300 Voyager kings, we pretty much emptied Kawasaki's distribution warehouses and other dealer's inventories.
I became the so called Voyager king, a title given by my customers, dealership and Kawasaki.
It's been a VERY long time since I've seen or touched a Voyager and have forgotten a whole lot but will try to reach back into my memory banks to help steer you in the right direction.
So first things first, you said you replaced the starter relay, this part is located in the junction box. Did you try replacing the starter solenoid?? Over time the contacts wear and will stick together.
How many miles are on the bike??
The Voyager engine was notorius for loading up the spark plugs and valves with carbon soot do to its lower cruising RPM, alot of the time (believe it or not) giving the engine a few good quick static full throttle revs with the engine at normal operating temperature would clear the popping/chirping heard form the exhaust. Not to say that thats your problem, the other possible causes are numerous so I'll try to run through a few semi simple things.....Dripping or dirty injectors, Dripping may be caused by injector nozzle sleeves having workied their way slightly off (They CAN be pushed back on).
Intake leaks are also a culprit...In general all the intake leaks were solved by by sealing the intake manifold to the head with Threebond 1211, Sealing them was a common practice for me whether they needed it or not because they WOULD evenually leak. Make sure they are not cracked and or falling apart.
Make sure vaccuum hoses are in good condition.
Make sure the clean air valve is functioning properly if so equiped.
Tight valve lash can also contribute to exhaust popping/chirping and will also degrade engine performance and fuel consumption.
Throttle bodies being out of sync.
Make sure your air filter is in good clean condition.
As for your fuel gauge.....Numeous items are possible....Unplugged (Sending unit in tank), cut/damaged wiring, Bad sending unit, bad gauge in instrament cluster, bad fuse.or could possibly be a bad diode/diode block.
Check ALL fuses and connections before you condemn parts.
Good luck and let us know what you find.

Re Starter...

Couple of things.....

Is it possible the solenoid switch itself is sticking?

If that's not it, and the starter button and relay (is there a relay - I need to check the wiring diagram) are both good, then it's probably a short circuit somewhere in the wire either from the starter button to the relay or from the relay to the solenoid.

Exhaust Popping.. the ZN1300 has reed valves that allow air to be sucked into the exhaust system to help with combustion of unburned fuel in the exhaust. Those suction valves are in the cam cover and are fed by a hose network (and pneumatic switch) from the airbox. Check to make sure the hoses and pneumatic switch feeding the reed valves are connected and not leaking. You can remove the reed valve covers and ever so gently press the valves to ensure they are not stuck.

Fuel gauge: my guess would be the sender (inside the tank) is gone but it should be easy to check that out with a volt meter at the connector under the tank (if you're lucky, the connector under the tank is simply disconnected)

Welcome to you, extreme lean.
You sound like you could be an invaluable asset to this forum. There is a core of members who try to help answer nearly every post, and I’m sure they will be happy to have the input from somebody who worked on these bikes professionally.
Did you own a Voyager? Did you work on any exceptionally high mileage bikes?
Did you also work on the KZ1300? What is your opinion , likes and dislikes, about these bikes? Oh, and the cam chain tensioner issue - did you experience many failures of that part, and what was Kawasaki’s angle on it?

Wow, Thank you guys for your expert advice and direction!! To answer the 1st 2 questions, Yes, replaced to solenoid and there's 58K miles on the bike. After it starts I unplugged the solenoid and there's still 9-10v in the plug/harness. I plan on tracing wires from start switch next, a short circuit sounds like the culprit.
Regarding the exhaust popping, I'll check all of your recommendations along with the fuel gauge!
Thanks again for everyone's help and guidance, I'll let you know as the Gremlins are found!!