TOPIC:

In case of KZ1300 there is insulation there.

I'm re-posting a couple of photos for reference.

Bri-Guy-GA wrote: I thought the solenoid was sealed and not serviceable. I don't recall seeing a way to open it up. The ZN1300 might be different from the KZ1300. As far as testing the starter goes. I really don't know what the commutator ring is. Is it the plate the brushes mount to? Sorry, but I'm not totally up on the lingo. When I opened the starter up there was a brown sticky residue over most of the internals. I cleaned it out and put it back together. When I take the plugs out it spins great.

Commutator ring see pic (the item on the left side of the pic)





Another big item that a lot of people miss is the ground side of the starter.

One brush is fed the 12 volt + and the other brush is the negative brush. The lead for the negative brush is attached to a terminal that is attached to the brush plate. The brush plate is sandwiched between the end cover and the body of the starter. The body of the starter is then grounded to the engine block.
So, have you ever heard of a starter that won't spin and if you rap it with a hammer it works again? This is because the brush plate to the starter body has developed rust between the 2 pieces and built up resistance. Crack it with a hammer and disturb the rust and then it spins over.
My point here is that the brush plate , end plate and starter body need to have clean surfaces i order to carry the voltage back to ground through the engine. Just check this

Got it. The commutator is the part the brushes rub against. Will test it this weekend as well as clean it again.

Took starter apart and tested the commutator. minimal readings between the segments, but I get a reading between the commutator and shaft. According to the manual that means there is a short and I need a new starter or to get this one rewound. Guess its time to go shopping. Brushes are well within spec, btw.

Thanks all.