Correct, for the most part. The reed-switch is silent! If you here something "ticking" you may have an issue related to the drive gear on the front wheel, the cable itself or inside the speedometer. The speedometer cable must rotate for the cancel feature to operate. The needle doesn't necessarily have to, though! That's because the cable spins a magnetic "Cup". The Cup magnetically induces the internals to move the needle. If the needle/mileage counter doesn't move then it's gummed-up but the cancel feature will (or should if operating correctly) still work / be tested. The reed-switch opens and closes dozens of times per front wheel revolution. It does this due to the magnetic properties of the speedometer internals. If the speedometer cable doesn't turn the internal Cup, the cancel feature CAN'T work. The cancel control (under the battery) "counts" the reed-switches open/close cycles and when the front wheel has rotated about 23(?) rotations, it closes the circuit to the electromagnet in the signal-switch and the switch should return to the off position.......when the "cancel" feature is ON.
I had some issues with mine this summer. First thing I'd suggest is do not remove the "guts" from the switch! Just trust me ! For those who haven't had to work on this switch: Remove only the thumb button on the signal switch. The screw that holds it to the switch arm is easiest to access with the switch selected "Right". There is a tiny nut recessed into the switch arm. REMOVE it (with a magnet). If you don't it will pop-out the first time the switch is moved and you'll loose it! With a Q-tip moistened with some lacquer-thinner, clean the contacts that are visible. The switch slides along a small diameter brass rod. Clean it with a Q-tip and suggest you cycle the switch right-off-left several times to remove any and all of the goo that may be on it. Mine was sticking due to normal accumulation of dust and stuff, stuck to the parts mentioned.
The method for testing the switch operation when self-cancel is selected is noted in the manual and is easy. Have patience: with the front wheel jacked up it seems to take forever to spin it 23 times ! And again trust me; It's just as fast by hand!.........for those who think they want to be creative,
If the problem still exists then check every connection related to the signals; clean them and ensure each blade connector (male and female) is secure in the multi-block. I have found in the past that a problem was due to one connector becoming "unlocked" from it's position and simply pushed out the back of the block when the plug was reconnected.
In an earlier post I had indicated that the cleaned switch could be lubed. When the switch is first cleaned it may be very stiff to operate. A TINY amount (a mere film) of die-electric silicone grease could be used on the contacts. This will make the switch move easily but if too much is used....the switch may not return to OFF via the auto cancel feature due to the "drag". This is especially true in cooler temperatures when the lube is "stickier". Do NOT lube the brass rod, for the same reason. Looking at your pictures I can suggest the immediate problem with that switch is the "goo" in it. It definitely needs cleaning!
That's it..... in a wordier explanation then that of the manual.
