TOPIC:

Folks, may I enquire of your collective k-nowledge;

My US 1979 A1 has a left switch cluster as per picture below and I've been debugging indicator wiring as part of rebuild and am left with a couple of functional queries that don't seem quite right;

All indicators working fine as left or right switch choice.

Hazards (4x indicator flashing concurrently) work off the orange switch, but ONLY when either left or right indicator is selected.
The manual doesn't mention this, does yours do the same?

The indicator auto-cancel option (black switch to the right of orange one) doesn't have any effect when stationary, but the manual says it 'measures' 50m travelled, is that true?!

If so, out of sheer curiosity, which component in the wiring diagram measures that and interrupts the flasher unit?
(I don't see anything that follows the logic..)

Thanks in advance,

Richard.

On my 79's the red switch turns the 4 ways on independently of the turn signals (the turn signals don't have to be engaged and get overridden anyway),
the black switch turns the self cancelling function on/off as to how it works it must work off the odometer somehow as its a mechanical drive for the speedo off the wheel with no wires.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Stocktoy, suspect the hazards shouldn't be linked to left / right function, so may have a short somewhere in there.

Correct !The signals and 4-ways are independent - hence the need for 2 flasher units. The manual is fairly clear with an explanation as to how the Auto-cancel circuit works so I won't spend the time to transcribe it.
The 4-ways "Piggy-back" the turn-signals. If you look at the schematic you'll see this but why your 4-ways only work with the signal switch activated (left or right) is a mystery. Off the top of my head I'd suggest you check each plug connection in the turn signal circuit and make certain that the colors match ! It could be that you or a P.O have removed the wires from the plugs (for cleaning?) and have put a wire back - in the wrong place (position in the plug).
The Auto-cancel unit is passive ! It can be disconnected and you'll still have signals, but no auto-cancel ! Power for the signals is fed by the ORANGE wire. The auto-cancel switch when turned ON, simply supplies an additional power feed (BROWN) for the "Timer/counter" circuit - internal to the signal control unit. The "timer" is internal to the unit. The counter is a reed-switch on the back of the speedometer. The "counter" senses the "pulses" from the reed-switch. The front wheel must rotate about 23 times for the "cancel"-unit to trigger the turn-signal release mechanism. The testing procedures are simple and strait forward. And don't forget the DIODEs in the signal circuit. Could be one or both are in backwards . This could happen despite the diode end being polarized with a male and female terminal. If connected to the wrong side of the flasher - the signals won't work.
Helps somewhat I hope.

Does help thanks Scotch.

My initial confusion was around the fact I couldn't find the 2nd flasher unit in the schematic, will look again in the morning.

The reed counter makes sense also, perfect.

No receptacles removed from plugs by me yet, but all plugs seperated / cleaned and mated again.
P.O. possible cause of changes indeed, my rear light power wires present in a way that seems to contradict the diagram and I've ended up with a spare red supply back there (from the OE loom) despite all functions being present and correct.

My main flasher had failed from one day of test to the next, which initially led me to checking all the usual voltage points, and the external diode, all of which checked out OK so I was left with the 'improbable' flasher failure and couldn't find a swap in the workshoip so peeled open the housing and after buzzing that through as well discovered one of the small spot-welds inside had failed but remained perfectly positioned... so that's another hour down the drain!
Soldered and working perfectly now.

I'll probably do a strip of the switch units as well, althoug they all 'appear' to work I suspect may be issues therein.

Something that I keep in mind regarding my switches is that the "guts" are irreplaceable. The plastic of the switch bodies and contact holders is old and brittle Unless something quits working which leaves me no alternative......as long as they work - I leave them alone. Something to consider perhaps.