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Kill-switch 5 years 9 months ago #20251

  • scotch
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Thanks for the better info !

BigSix - Easy to check the power IN to the Ballast-Resistor ( if applicable) A poor connection feeding your coils sounds plausible regardless of your ignition coil set-up.

Daro - Ignition switch or Main switch cleaning would be logical along with checking any connection related to getting power to the coils including the 30A harness fuse.
It could also be a poor "ground" .
Not clear about which models you have but one of my Manuals has "Supplements" which includes 11 separate schematics ! You can see the problem for us "arm-chair electrical diagnosticians" !
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
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Kill-switch 5 years 9 months ago #20273

  • Daro
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Scotch i always admired You sens of humor, -arm-chair electrical diagnosticians- ha ha ha. I had a look at the schematic for A2 and its clear that the 12 volt power to the igniter and the coil resistor is going through all most every switch available on this bike thus creating possibility of serial resistance build up on its way there. Now regarding the problem BigSix is facing, I'm working for electrical company, in crude oil refinery and I'm with Kawboy here, that the infrared camera is one of the best tools for diagnostic in order to prevent the failure of electrical systems available, we using it all the time, for example to check connections in switch stations (sorry i don't know if that's the therm used in English for it). Any connection will warm up and change its resistance, if for bigger than there is the voltage drop, more heat development which will magnify the problem and so on. On the motorcycle, not just the current draw, but also mechanical factor like vibration can and often does add up to develop the bad connection somewhere like i previously wrote for example light tap on the main switch in my bike and there you go everything works again, but the process could be reversed and than nothing works. BigSix what model You bike is, and what You mean by suddenly everyting stopped ? Was there any lights on on the dash and the main beam was it still on ? I hope it wont be very fiddly to fix it.

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Kill-switch 5 years 9 months ago #20277

  • BigSix
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Hi Daro

If I remember correctly: the engine stopped working immediately, red oil-warning lamp is on. No option to press the start-button as it simply does not react.

Will have to monitor the issue.

Holger
Z1300 A1/ KZT30AG built 1979
frame KZT30A 004285
engine KZT30A 000288
location: borderland-triangle France/ Germany/ Switzerland, Europe

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Kill-switch 5 years 9 months ago #20285

  • Daro
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Hi Holger, here is the schematic for A2 model. I chose this one because I don't know what model do You have, but on this example we are going to follow simple logic to determine the location of the fault in the starter and ignition circuit. In the description below colours written in brackets mean the real colours of the cables in the bike model A2 US and Canada. I have marked relevant part of the circuit on the picture with green, red and green-red line. Now follow the line starting from: the battery plus (red-white) to 30 amp fuse, from there to the main switch (white-black) highlighted yellow, from here to the ignition switch (white) highlighted blue, and from there to engine stop switch (brown) highlighted green. Between the ignition switch and the engine stop switch there is a branch leading to the oil pressure warning light marked red, so when the engine has quit the 12 volt power must have still been there, because like You said the lamp was still on. Now going backwards from the igniter (yellow-red) towards the resistors then past them to the engine stop switch there must have been no power in that wire since the engine have died. Now: notice the branch (under the switch icon on the schematic) just after the engine stop switch: one to the resistor and igniter (yellow-red), wire marked RED, and one to the starter lockout switch (black white), wire marked GREEN, there was also no power in there when the engine have stopped, because the wire going down TO the lockout switch (black-white) is coming out of that branch, than going back up to the starter button (black-white). So this explains why the starter button did not respond when pressed. By following the logic I conclude that the problem reside between connector for the dash lights and connector to the engine stop switch and starter button including the switch itself, I marked the area with red-green, both switches are placed together in the right hand switch module. Its difficult to say what exactly is causing a weak connection but at least that's where I would start to look. Any way I to have probs with electrics on my bike so when I'm at it I try to make some pictures and trace the wires of You interest, till than ride safe Holger !!!
Sorry, picture quality is crap but that's the best of me in front of the keyboard. You gonna have to use pdf manual for details page 297-297a.

Darek
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