TOPIC:

With the tank off for some recent work, I took a better picture of the coil-pack. Pollution reed-housings have to be removed.
I cleaned up the previously polished header holders. They had flow-marks from being cast so I used a sheet of 400 wet paper on a flat surface and removed those marks, then repolished.
Cleaned the Fan blades and shroud and gave everything a good layer of Paste-wax to slow down the accumulation of grime that inevitably collects.
Painted the oil pan after glass-beading the outside. Not concerned about the coating "insulating" the pan and preventing heat dissipation. One could debate this topic from the point of view that with a massive collector within 3/4" of the pan, the collector puts more heat into the oil then the cover could ever dissipate which is why I chose to double-wrap the collector.

Autosol works amazing for taking the blue (Chromium Oxide) off of the pipes. Only problem is once the pipes get back up to the 800-1000F temp. the oxide will form again. Hence the reason most all of the stock pipes on motorcycles are double walled. The outer pipe under standard riding conditions will stay below the temp that the Chromium oxide forms and keeps the pipes looking pretty.
Stumbled across this when looking for the temp that the chromium oxide forms.
" Now after visiting the web site of Krome Werks I find this in the Q&A section:

Is exhaust bluing a warrantable condition?

No. All chrome plated steel exhaust pipes or mufflers will "blue" or discolor when the surface temperature reaches 900°F. This can occur if the fuel mixture is too rich. Instead of the charge burning mostly in the combustion chamber, the mixture continues to burn after the exhaust valve opens, down the pipe, causing extreme heat and bluing of the metal and its plated surface in the most restrictive areas - most commonly the bends or the baffle area. cleaning products, such as Blue Buster™, are available and when properly used are quite effective in removing most discoloration from pipes. Heat shields are now available for 3" mufflers

Is re-jetting necessary to install Khrome Werks AR® exhaust systems?

Many customers think a richer main jet is required when changing to high performance pipes and/or free flowing air cleaner. Air/fuel mixture ratios taken during dyno and road tests of our HP-Plus Mufflers and AR systems on stock Harley-Davidsons with free-flowing air cleaners showed no main jet changes were required to obtain desired performance and mixtures. But many required to be richer at idle and just off idle. The idle mixture screw should be set at 1/2-1 1/2 turns. A simple way to enrichen the off idle mixture on CV carbs is to raise the needle .030"-.040" with a washer or replace the needle with H-D part no 27094-88. If still too lean replace the slow jet with one size larger. Bikes with cams, high compression pistons, big bore kits etc. will require adjustments to all carb jets. ""

Looks great Scotch!
I took my housings to be chromed. I've seen people do it and they were just fine. I will see what happens.
Now I will be on a lookout for that black cap you have on your fan. Did you find it at Home Depot or Can. Tire? Great idea!
I also use 400 then up to 1600 paper on a flat surface to make all the different housings sealing surfaces flat and perfect.

I agree. I am not concerned with heat much when it comes to the oil pan as well (and I also see you year looks quite different than what I have).

Is there a detailed thread on replacing the oem coils on your bike?

Stan: The black plastic cap that I have on the fan blade-center is a generic cap which I just happened to have. It inserted well but being "plastic-on-plastic" and inherently slippery, I put a drop of Loctite on it just to be sure it stayed in place.
I did a thread some time ago on the GM coil-pack conversion. Search: "GM coil conversion" This particular coil was from a Pontiac Grand Am and its primary resistance required the inclusion of the stock Ballast resistor. Personally speaking I had no issue with retaining the resistor and I've had no problems or concerns with this set-up. Again - personally speaking - I don't see why some have an aversion to using the resistor if required. Of course if a retro coil-system meets the resistance requirements then YES, the resistor must be removed. Having followed your progress and understanding your level of aptitude, I can say with some certainty that you'll not have any problems making the correct connections - with or without the resistor if this is what you're considering. I had to drill four additional holes in the OEM coil mounting plate to accommodate 4 of the 6 holes on the coil-pack. The mounting holes already in the GM coil can be tapped to take a metric bolt or screw. There is an obvious need to have an electrical insulating medium between the terminal side of the coil and the bottom of the mounting plate. I used a heavy piece of Gasket material.
With the header-collector "double-wrapped" you can actually touch it. It gets very warm but won't burn. You can appreciate how much cooler this keeps the oil! About 8-10 degrees C. by my oil temp. gauge.
Truing surfaces on a flat surface with a sheet of the appropriate type and grit works very well as you have re-iterated.

Thanks Scotch. I am sure I will have a lot of research and questions asking when putting things together. Sometimes the smallest details make the biggest difference, and the only way to know about them is from experience, which I have none with this bike. I have engineering and mechanics background, but that's a long time ago. Actually, I was hoping this bike will mostly need fluids change, a battery, and lots of polishing and painting of course. Now I found myself dissecting most of it, and I must say I really enjoy it and seeing the progress is very rewarding! I can just imagine the feeling when I hear the engine fire the first time.

Could you post a photo of your header collector wrapped? Did you paint it before wrapping?

Stan - I suspected you had some background experience !! It's been refreshing to watch and read your progress.

Re: Header-wrap. Just the collector. Too much controversy about wrapping the actual down-pipes.
About the "Small details" - I wrapped the water-pump inlet hose with 2 layers of 6 oz. fiberglass cloth and then cover it with 2 layers of foil-tape.
Look at the center-stand closely in one of the pictures. A mod. I did so I can use the center stand with a DG.
www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/suspensio...r-stand-vs-dg-header
And a picture of what it looks like naked.