TOPIC:

Finding an MOSFET R/R...

The "easy" way of knowing if a R/R is MOSFET based, is to look at the markings...

Almost all R/R's for motorcycles are made by Shindengen, and they supply all the manufacturers... Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha and Suzuki and others...

A MOSFET R/R has a marking with FH-*** on it... The numbers tell the specific output and such... and an older thyristor based R/R is marked SH-*** same here, numbers tell the output... SH stands for shunt, and FH for "FET based shunt"... Ie MOSFET...

Now, it's pretty common that the sellers on eBay doesn't list an image with the markings, or write out the type... So here is a list of known MOSFET based R/R's... Keep in mind that the list is a work in progress, you might get an unsuitable R/R if you go by the list alone, look at the markings for FH-***...

Kawasaki
ZX-6R 2007-> Cut-n-splice... Either solder, or get both connectors from eastern beaver...
ZX-10 2004->
ZX14 2006->
Concours 2008-> Both MOSFET and non-MOSFET available, beware! (And the tyristor based one seems to need a larger load than the VTR to work)

Yamaha
FZ1 2007->
YZF-R1 2007->
YZF-R1 2004-2006 - Works, but has large fins, making it hard to fit...
FJ1300 2007->
Wildstar 1300 2007->

Honda
CBR 1000RR 2004-2007 - Both MOSFET and non-MOSFET available, BEWARE! Cut-n-splice
CBR 1000RR 2008-> Odd connectors, no plugs available, use spade connectors...
CBR 600RR 2003-2006 - Both MOSFET and non-MOSFET available, BEWARE! Cut-n-splice
CBR 600RR 2007-> Cut-n-splice

The Shindengen FH-020-AA is the latest rendition and would be my choice. Easily found even on EBay

Once I figured the oil heat problems out on the stators, and did them up with a better insulating cover coating, the problems stopped, even with the stock solid state regulators. I did, however, move the two regulators, and install them on a finned heat sink plate, in the air flow though the chassis. No further problems.

Dovi won, Maverick 2nd, Vale 3rd, "Fred Crutch-burg" 4th, Lorenzo, distant 5th. Key issues, as usual, tires, tires, tires, tires and...tires. I think Dunlop can do a lot better, but not any time soon. I dislike "control tires" rulings.

USA KZ1300 wrote " Once I figured the oil heat problems out on the stators, and did them up with a better insulating cover coating, the problems stopped, even with the stock solid state regulators. I did, however, move the two regulators, and install them on a finned heat sink plate, in the air flow though the chassis. No further problems."

I would really like to here your resolution to the above statment. I get the part about moving the regulators to a spot with better airflow and adding a heatsink, but I'm curious as to what you determined was the cause related to the "oil heat".

Just got done with tech briefing after track day here. tired.

"Oil heat" as I outlined, is the oil mist that permeates all areas of engines above oil pools, and areas of heat inside the engine. Now, as we all know, oil can be used to help dissipate heat from internal engine parts, including insulated electrical parts, as long as a stream of cool oil is used to do so.

There are NO oil jets, paths, nor sufficient splash to cool things like stators and rotors inside the covers of a 1300. If you have ever seen an egg or hot dog steamer, this should be very easy to understand. The actual fluid inside one of those steamers is still liquid, and really hot, butk, it will still carry excessive heat off a part, hot dog, egg, to help cool it. One by-product of the fluids in the steamer, is STEAM, super heated moisture vapors, and if you get your hand near where they vent, the hand will be burned extremely quickly.

Our stators do not have direct fluid cooling, they are subject to the basic "steam" type hot vapors, which do not cool. This allows insulation coatings and materials to be compromised, destroyed, and even decomposed off parts, to over heat our stators.

This is "oil heat", or, I should have been more specific, "oil vapor over-heating".

Please remember, some decades ago, Suzuki, and now, Kawasaki 4 strokes utilized/utilize internal spray oil paths to help cool things like undersides of pistons, valve guide areas, and that oil is liquid, not over-heated vapor.

usakz1300 wrote: Just got done with tech briefing after track day here. tired.

"Oil heat" as I outlined, is the oil mist that permeates all areas of engines above oil pools, and areas of heat inside the engine. Now, as we all know, oil can be used to help dissipate heat from internal engine parts, including insulated electrical parts, as long as a stream of cool oil is used to do so.

There are NO oil jets, paths, nor sufficient splash to cool things like stators and rotors inside the covers of a 1300. If you have ever seen an egg or hot dog steamer, this should be very easy to understand. The actual fluid inside one of those steamers is still liquid, and really hot, butk, it will still carry excessive heat off a part, hot dog, egg, to help cool it. One by-product of the fluids in the steamer, is STEAM, super heated moisture vapors, and if you get your hand near where they vent, the hand will be burned extremely quickly.

Our stators do not have direct fluid cooling, they are subject to the basic "steam" type hot vapors, which do not cool. This allows insulation coatings and materials to be compromised, destroyed, and even decomposed off parts, to over heat our stators.

This is "oil heat", or, I should have been more specific, "oil vapor over-heating".

Please remember, some decades ago, Suzuki, and now, Kawasaki 4 strokes utilized/utilize internal spray oil paths to help cool things like undersides of pistons, valve guide areas, and that oil is liquid, not over-heated vapor.

I understand the aspect of the oil mist being insufficient to cool the stator. I was hoping that you had come up with a method of cooling the stator but what I'm understanding here is that you compensated for the heating problem by coating the stator with a material that can withstand the heat. Can I ask what you recoated the stator with?

I use either a stator from a different Kawasaki that makes more amperage, or, have a friend rewind them, and he uses some sort of epoxy that isn't adversely effected by heat and oils. I'll ask him.

I had thought that there are oil galleries on either end of the case there, and also thought of simply adding a couple of aimed oil jets to them, to literally aim a stream of cool oil onto the stators, never needed it once the redone, different stators were in place. The stators I used were a touch wider than the 1300 ones. I haven't done one in a few years, have a few in the top of one of my tool boxes at home, will look when I get back. I seem to remember either 1000 or 1100 4's. The width allows for differe4nt wire loads, changing output level, wider windings, more amps.

I still like the way the first KZ750 4's had them, self contained alternator, belt driven, behind the cylinders. If there was a way to cleanly install a Delco-Remy 12SI internally regulated car alternator, I'd do that, they work nicely, have as much as 94 amps, and NEVER brake, ever, I have them on all my cars.