TOPIC:

In Oct '07 I replaced the Stator and V/R with units from RMSTATOR. Just for reference -Stator -RMG010 @$130.95 and V/R RMR470 @$108.95. Everything was OK until recently. Over the past few days I've been diagnosing a charging issue.. Did the usual systematic procedures and (making a long story short) discovered this, but not after some head-scratching!
A cold solder joint on one of the diodes. The wire simply lifted-off the pin. Not slamming the manufacturer by any means. I've come across this problem with a number of electronic devices, but was able to rectify (no pun intended) the issue by simply re-soldering. Can't do that in this case. The "potting" material probably helped keep the joint secure for continuity but given the heat expansion it finally lost it's conductivity. That's the theory, anyway.
To dig out the potting material I boiled the entire housing for several minutes at a time and picked it out with a small flat screw-driver. Took about 30 minutes, to be able to lift the circuit-board from the heat sink. I went to this trouble because I was at a loss as to what was the true cause of the low charge. Testing the V/R was inconclusive. The Stator checked out, as did the battery.
I've installed a used OEM V/R for now until a new replacement arrives. Something I will point out is regarding the aftermarket V/Rs. Some DO NOT have the BROWN wire ! This is the case with the RM R470 V/R. The schematic for an '80 shows the BROWN wire feeding power to several circuits. This power from this BROWN wire must be redundant and supplied via the circuitry of the two keyed switches. I say this because everything - lights, signals, gauges etc, on this circuit worked with the RM V/R. ???
Something else I discovered. The various prices ????? In my search for a new replacement V/R and in researching 80's era Kawasaki's I found that some use the same wiring color-code - 3 yellows, 1 RED, 1 BLACK and 1 BROWN for the 3 phase systems. Of interest to me was the following:
Kawasaki BJ250 (250TR) 2002-2006
Kawasaki BJ250 (ESTRELLA 250) 1992-2006
Kawasaki KZ1000 (POLICE 1000) 1983-2005
Kawasaki KZ1100 1982-1983
Kawasaki GPZ 1100 (ZX1100A2) 1983-1985
Kawasaki GPZ 750 Turbo (ZX750E2) 1984-1985
Model Number: YHC-091


Price:C $19.90
Free shipping

I'll let y'all know how this works out!

I had the same confusion about the brown wire when I replaced the V/R on mine. I came to the conclusion that the brown wire, which is an ignition switched live, merely 'wakes up' the original V/R to tell it to start working. Incidentally I fitted a more modern V/R from a Yamaha R1 that uses mosfet technology instead of transistors. They're supposed to be a lot more reliable, runs a lot cooler & lets the generator start charging just off idle.

Thanks for the response Phil ! Do you have the model / part # of the Yamaha R1 V/R ?

Turns out the OEM V/R that I've been keeping for 10 years isn't working. I figured this out today when after a short 180 K trip the Temp. gauge and Fuel gauge needles dropped to half of the true value and the Left signal indicator stopped working. Battery was at 11.8V. Now the "scramble" is on!

Supplement: Had a good laugh at my own expense! Found this in the FAQ's - I just recently replaced my "toasted" stator with one from RM Stator in Eastern Canada. Of note is that their reg./rec. only uses 3 wires (red/black/yellow) to plug into the harness. (I soldered all wires!) A phone-call confirmed this is correct for the application as "new electronic technology" has eliminated the need for the brown "sensing" wire. The guys name is Sean, gave great service and a good price. Bob F.

Should clarify the way I wrote this. I was referring to the 3 colors of wires which in this case eliminates the BROWN. So, 3 YELLOW, 1 RED, 1 BLACK.


Today - Tried to access web-site for RMStator site and get a Mal-Ware type of warning page. ( Turns out my NORTON security was set to high) Going to give them a call tomorrow with the intention of buying a new Stator and V/R. The current stator (RMStator) is producing 70/70/50 VAC @ 1500RPM 95+/95+/70+ VAC @3800RPM. The 1 phase that's low is of enough concern that I'm not dicking around with this issue. I've already replaced the battery as a measure of diligence. I'll post as this develops.

I was going to remove the Stator today but have decided to wait for the replacement V/R and Stator. I can still ride for short trips so don't see the sense in not having this option. I am currently rethinking the "soldering" modification and considering going back to a M/F plug connection. Soldering the Stator leads certainly provides for the best continuity and alleviates the "Resistance" concern but obviously poses it's own issues when diagnosing a problem which arises ! I am going to look into a better/higher quality connector but regardless of what I use it's an easy pro-active measure to occasionally pull the plugs apart and check on the terminal condition. Something I already do with most of the connectors to keep "the Flow" flowing.
Further to the Cold Solder joint where the solder lifted off the Diode pin, I found these !

ALL BAD joints. This is exactly what I found. I have not "enhanced" the physical appearance of the soldered connections or the photos ! It's clear these components are hand assembled and hand soldered. I've got enough experience to understand how these bad solder-joints happened. NOT enough heat on the "pins". Obviously enough to flow the solder and connect to the printed circuit but not enough to flow and bond to the "pins". And I think it's safe to say," We know where they're made" ! Many aftermarket motorcycle V/R's have the same heat-sink housing. Presumably generic with only the internals made to fit the various applications. This might suggest that they all come from the same source or affiliated source but the concern applies none-the-less. It seems we get what we get (with crossed fingers) and there's no way of assuming their life expectancy until you dig-out the potting material as I did, to discover why the unit failed. I doubt few go to the trouble and I can see why, having to boil-to-soften the potting material numerous times to get to the heart of the problem.
Be assured, I'll be discussing this with RMStator.

And to think all of this started with something as innocent as a dim signal indicator!

Raises my curiosity Scotch. By chance are these pins on the load side of the regulator? Is it possible that the joints overheated and the solder wiped away in the potting material?
I like Phil's answer to the problem. Go to MOSFET technology V/R's. Did that on my Kawasaki Triple 750. Made a huge difference in the charging rate and controlled the battery voltage to 14.2V +- .1 Volts

You're correct KB - The bad solder connections are on the Thyristor/Diode connection circuit-board. It's very obvious there has been some heating on these pins and I suspect that the heating expansion along with a cold-joint to begin with, created the complete separation on one of the diode pins and has caused cracking around the other 4. However: Boiling the unit to soften the potting material did not melt the solder. Not hot enough and no traces/indication of solder melting; but your idea is valid. I'm quite disgusted with the very poor quality of the Solder-joints. Clearly inexperienced workmanship (not enough heat to the "pin" when soldering) probably combined with a "filling the quota" mentality for the production day. (Or it was the last one assembled on a Friday?)
Have inquiries in @ Electrosport and RMStator for availability and design type. RMStator no longer lists V/R's or Stators either by the 10 year old part# or by current inventory. Both advertise some V/R models having MOSFET design which is preferable.
I wonder how much difference there is between ALL of these various 3 phase models/applications. The heat sink housings are obviously generic. The rubber strain reliefs where the wires exit have multiple holes (also generic). Given the fact that they (simply) convert AC to DC it causes me to wonder if the internals are the same and the only difference is whether they are supplied with or without the plugs. A motorcycle battery and the bikes electrical needs can't vary that much in their requirements ? While I wait for some "technicians" to call me back I'll keep on plundering the WEB for options - particularly the MOSFET type.