TOPIC:

"Slapping it on and seeing if it works" is not the way to accomplish repairs, I agree. Whether in the form of Lauri's Ignition-modules ( Complex and technical)"

I find this statement offending. Our ignition module for the 1981 A3 model is a reproduction of the original Mitsubishi Electric module.
It was reverse engineered by a brilliant Estonian who used to build rocket control boards for the Sojuz space rockets. The units have been manufactured with modern components and each unit has been tested in test bench and on Aris bike. We have supplied ca. 50 pieces of them around the world and thus have kept the bikes on the road for years to come.
They are definitely not "Slapping it on and seeing if it works"


As to using aftermarket coils in the 1300s, I know the working parameters of the igniter from the development and testing of our units.
The igniter can handle an ohm range of 2.4 to 4 ohms without fear of damage to the output transistors.
I run my KZs with ordinary after market coils with 3 ohms on primary, the ceramic resistor is taken off. My stock engine on the 1982, which I fully reconditioned 20,000 miles ago, gives out 112 hp from rear wheel with those coils.

This is to LareNurminen specificly; I apologise for the poor wording of my comment, which you took offense to. I can see how you took this. It was absolutely not meant to offend and in fact I thought I was promoting your electronics! The intent was to suggest that using a product such as yours was the best way to go as you had done the research to produce a technical/quality part. My wording lacked continuity.
Better worded: One should consider your product, vs. "junk-yard" options or aftermarket parts that have questionable specs, performance and quality.
Again, very sorry for that misinterpretation/misunderstanding.
sincerely, scotch

Hi Scotch,
Apoligy accepted, let us forget the misunderstanding.

Work continues with the ignition of A3, we are currently working on replicating the Hall sensor pick-ups. They will also help the owners to ride on.
Best regs, Lauri

Along with being an engine design engineer for one factory race team, I also own and run an ignition system conversion business. that said, resistance tests on the coils themselves, with NO resistor caps fitted to them, is no longer adequate.

Resistance tests are fine to tell if a coil works COLD, or, if it is totally open and shot, but, that usually ISN'T where the coil has problems, especially epoxy filled coils, like we have. The ONLY conclusive coil tests are done with the coil at full operating temperatures, and on an off vehicle run testing machine, found at better auto parts stores.

Stock Kawasaki twin lead coils would test just like an electronic coil for a later model car, with two spark plug wire outputs per coil, like the GM coil packs mentioned in this topic. Testing on a single wire machine, ground one of the plug wire terminals to the coil negative yoke (ground the yoke to the tester ground for the coil), or wire, read the spark from the other wire.

Now, testing the resistor caps is OK using an ohm meter, but, they, as well, need to be at operating temperatures, or, their resistance values might not be totally accurate. Some, not all resistor caps have a spark plug terminal up in the cap that unscrews with a flat blade screw driver. Removing the terminal will allow a spring, metal disk and resistor to be removed, and most build up carbon on the resistor, spring and terminal, along with the connecting area in the cap. Simple cleaning usually brings them back to specification, as long as the resistor is in good shape, and, it can be read outside the cap, with a regular ohm meter. Also, if desired, a section of aluminum round stock can be subbed in place of the resistor, bo build a non-resistor cap, if the type of ignition system warrants doing so.

There is usually a single number on the cap. located in an identification part number, as an example, LB05F, the '5' is the resistor rate, 5K ohms.

Just FYI.