TOPIC:

That looks like a nice connector. I was wondering if I should get a connector or just splice and solder.

Personally, I like to be able to disconnect components for troubleshooting, repair, or replacement. I thought about going with OEM-style Molex but landed on PowerPoles because, honestly, they pose a sexy solution.

Yes, I like that idea too. I'm not sure what is available locally but they must have some sort of high amperage connectors in stock at NAPA. I'll check to see if they carry the powerpoles.

Thanks

Maybe not he EXACT place to discuss this but one of the posts talks about soldering the wires.

nothing wrong with soldering provided you don't forget to do the last step. Resin paste or resin core solder has an acidic base which is the chemical cleaning agent that brightens up the copper. A lot of people don't know that when using the resin paste or resin core solder, the final step should be to neutralize the acid residue left on the wire with a mixture of Bicarbonate of soda (more commonly called baking soda) with water. Half a cup of water and a teaspoon of baking soda, mix it up and just wipe it on the freshly soldered joint with a disposable brush. Keep the mixture in a plastic jar in the shop for anytime you have some soldering to do.
If you don't do this, what will happen is the acid will keep eating through the copper wire reducing the size of the wire which will cause the wire to heat up. Eventually the wire will break right beside the soldered joint. It won't happen until about 5-8 years down the road when you least expect it to. and of course you have a hell of a time trying to find it because what did you do after soldering the wire? Heat shrink the joint or electrical tape. Now the failure is not obvious.
I prefer the solderless connectors. In order to do them properly and not have issues, you need to buy a proper solderless terminal crimping tool. It will crimp the wires with a factory like finish and guarantee a positive connection between the wire and the terminal. A lot of failed connectors due to overheating are caused by an incorrect crimp. And last, after crimping apply a coat of your favorite No-Ox paste to the finished connection. I always keep a can of Rust-check around just for this purpose.

I buy mine on eBay for about $20 per 20 pairs. NAPA is very unlikely to have them in stock; you would have better luck at a HAM radio supply store.


YMMV.

NAPA definitely didn't have them so I got waterproof butt connectors instead. Rated for 30 amps apparently.

Thanks for the soldering tips kawboy. I actually do a lot of soldering for work but I didn't want to solder these wires in case either the stator or regulator/rectifier need to be replaced.. which at some point one or both probably will.