TOPIC:

Fixed mine easily.

Just remove it entirely from the casing and give it a good spray with WD40.
Also spray it in the cable hole itself and every part that moves.
Next take the INNER cable and insert it into the hole and turn it as good as you can with your fingers to work the WD40 in.
I did this 3 to 4 times over a 24 hour period then gave it a good clean to remove excess WD40 and back into the casing.

It works like new now.

Pete F
UK (or whats left of of it).

I have to jump in on this,

with all due respect I would discourage:
Just remove it entirely from the casing and give it a good spray with WD40.
Also spray it in the cable hole itself and every part that moves.

The intent is good but..........
The WD40 method may give immediate results but you'll be creating bigger issues.
There are 2 concerns when servicing the Tach. and Speed. The "Hair-Springs" that return the needles to "0" are the VERY delicate and Sensitive !!!!
The residual WD40 will coat every part and this will attract dust. Of equal concern - due to the wording of the previous post - the WD40 will migrate into the counter wheels of the odometer and you do not want to have to remove and dissemble that !
Do NOT use compressed air - Any PSI will potentially destroy the hair springs !
Once the chassis' of the instrument have been removed caution must be observed regarding the Needles and the hair-springs ! I suggest using a small FINE artist type paint brush with (to be on the safe side) alcohol, to clean the dried lube from magnetic couplings. Slow needle response is a usually a result of dried lube in their bearing stems. Do this and any cleaning with the instrument face UP, so nothing runs onto the face plate, the hair-spring or the odometer wheels.
There is NO need to lube anything other then the cable input shaftt. There is no "load" or weight on any of the components and they are best left clean and dry !
There was a suggestion made some time ago, to free-up a slow-to-respond speedometer by removing the Trip Reset knob and spraying WD40 through that hole. Need I say more ?
Don't mean to rain on anyone's Parade - just trying to avoid someone getting caught in the proverbial Thunder Storm !

You will be just fine with WD40, and if you need to remove the dust every 20 to 40 years with more of it..........then all good !

Beware using alcohol or similar, as if if gets anywhere near the Tacho Face or printed digits, it may well remove or distort them..............which WD40 definitely will not.

I can guarantee the WD40 method works perfectly well without doubt, as I have used it on many bike Tacho and Speedo units in cars and bikes over the last 40 years................so a well proven recipe and working 100% perfectly well on my bike now.

Pete F
UK (or whats left of it).

I appreciate your point of view Pete !
Regardless of our slightly opposing views - as long as care and some common sense are used in handling the instruments, they can be made to work as they should.

As the saying goes "There are numerous ways to skin a cat"

Pete F
UK (or whats left of it)

strate6 wrote: As the saying goes "There are numerous ways to skin a cat"

Pete F
UK (or whats left of it)

Or as my dad used to say "you don't look at the mantle-piece whilst stoking the fire" but not sure that applies here