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Adding a 84 ZN1300 DFI to a 79 KZ1300 9 years 4 months ago #5558

  • KZQ
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trikebldr wrote: ...I HIGHLY recommend that you have the ZN1300 supplement manual if you don't already have one. Chapter 3 goes into the deep details of the fuel system and troubleshooting...


There are nine manuals in the box to the right of these pages. The manual you're referring to is the last one listed. Just click and download it.

Bill
1947 Indian Chief, 1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 Kawasaki W3, 1976 KZ900 A4, 1979 KZ750 B4, 1979 KZ750 B4 Trike, 1980 KZ550, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1985 Kawasaki ZN1300, 1987 Yamaha Trail Way, 2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1981 GL 1100, 2009 Yamaha RoadLiner S

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Adding a 84 ZN1300 DFI to a 79 KZ1300 9 years 4 months ago #5559

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I'm not at all familiar with the KZ's frame where it might interfere with that fuel rail. However, I will warn you about the short rubber connectors from the injectors to that rail. As old as they are by now, they will be hard and brittle. Also, they are crimped to the injectors and not repairable. Just be VERY careful about removing that rail for modification. It might be easiest to remove all six injectors from the valve bodies along with the rail, then slowly slip each injector connector loose one at a time. Might want to use some kind of slippery fluid to loosen the joint with the rail. Slowly work that into the joint before trying to slip it off. Also, don't pull on the injector. Use the tips of your fingers to push on the edges of the rubber connectors.

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Adding a 84 ZN1300 DFI to a 79 KZ1300 9 years 4 months ago #5561

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OK, a bit of out-of-the-box thinking here.

Our fuel systems on carburetted bikes are gravity fed. If the fuel shutoff valve is not religiously used each time, carbs are notorious for not completely shutting off fuel when the bowls fill up, causing cylinders to fill and hydro-lock on start up, bending con-rods, as well as some fuel leaking past rings into the crankcase to dilute the oil.

Fuel injection doesn't have this problem. Well, not very often! An injector needs an electrical signal from the DFI controller to open and pass any fuel at all. So, the shutoff valve can be left open indefinitely. On my '83 Voyager I never did shut it off in the eight years I had the bike. I went to reserve a few times on the road, but never shut it off, except to remove the tank for maintenance. I never had any leakage.

This is all leading up to that check valve in the fuel return line from the pressure regulator. What's it for? One mechanic opined that it acted like a"shutoff" valve to prevent any backflow when the bike sits. OK, I can accept that. But, otherwise, it doesn't affect engine performance when it is running.

I bought my '83 Voyager brand new and never had any issues with it. I started to remove the tank to do a valve adjustment after about 3k miles. When I removed that return line to the check valve fuel came "gushing" out. OK, it just ran out! Oops! Not good. I drained the tank to do my valve adjustment job. After I was done I took it back to the dealer and had them look at it. The bike ran fine. It leaked all over their floor, too, when they removed the return line! I warned 'em! They replaced it and the mechanic said that he cut it open and found that the small spring against the check ball has slipped past the ball a bit and jammed it open. He figured it was a fluke manufacturing issue of that check valve. The new one didn't let any fuel past. The engine didn't run any different after it was replaced.

So, what's the point? If that check valve is to act as a "shutoff" valve for the return line, why not eliminate that check valve completely and run that return line to a "T" in the fuel line just after the main On/Off/Res valve? Unlike a carb system, the fuel injection system doesn't have any points of concern for leakage when the bike just sits. Oh, it's possible that if you don't keep a good filter in front of the pump that a bit of debris COULD get stuck in an injector, jacking it open just a tiny bit, allowing fuel to seep past. But, not likely! Mine never did in eight years!

Just run that return line over to a "T" in that fuel feed line and be done with it. NO CHECK VALVE!

I recently bought my current '85 Voyager, with just 45k miles, and have been slowly going through it looking for non-functional parts. It runs like new, but so did my brand new '83 with a bad check valve! This thread made me curious about the check valve on my bike, so I went out last night and removed the return line. Drip, drip, drip, drip, drip! Almost a steady stream. I shot some low-pressure air up though it, but still, drip, drip, drip. So, when the weather warms a bit I will be putting my fuel lines where my mouth is and capping off that check valve. Will let you know how it goes.

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Last edit: by trikebldr.

Adding a 84 ZN1300 DFI to a 79 KZ1300 9 years 4 months ago #5565

  • kennyb
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Thanks again for the info. I think I'll exercise the "prime directive" when I get the DFI system. Don't want to screw it up since it did take me a couple of years to find one that was complete. Is there anyway that KZQ aka as the admin of this wonderful site could be kind enough to re post Mr Ewings DFI upgrade?

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Adding a 84 ZN1300 DFI to a 79 KZ1300 9 years 4 months ago #5569

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Hi Kenny,

There is a portion of the FAQ (Modifications section) that addresses the change to DFI. I will look through David's materials that he forwarded to me to see if there is any more on the topic.

Be back soon.

Bill
1947 Indian Chief, 1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 Kawasaki W3, 1976 KZ900 A4, 1979 KZ750 B4, 1979 KZ750 B4 Trike, 1980 KZ550, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1985 Kawasaki ZN1300, 1987 Yamaha Trail Way, 2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1981 GL 1100, 2009 Yamaha RoadLiner S

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