TOPIC:

A couple of times in the course of getting my '82 KZ1300 back on the road, I have gotten it running smoothly and up to operating temperature, with all signs of carb fuel overflow gone, only to find on the next fire-up a few days later that the float valves are gushing like Old Faithful again.

When I first cleaned out the carbs I noticed that the float valve needle-and-seats were steel on steel, so there is zero compliance and zero margin for error. I almost burned my first car to the ground because of this kind of stupid design, that would flood whenever the engine was forced to idle in traffic in warm temperatures.

Is this a universal feature of carbed KZ1300s, and if so is there any source of aftermarket float valves that will fit and were not the result of brain-dead design?

Sorry for the editorializing, but they must have known better.

Actually: Stainless Steel. All OEM "1300" floats are the same configuration. This is not your problem. Typically: old Nytrophil floats start absorbing fuel and loose their buoyancy. Currently the only option is to replace them with Brass Floats.
www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/parts-bik...33-brass-floats#8192

Hi, I have had this problem since first owning my bike !!!! not realising what the problem was until close inspection, Bad plug fouling ect ect. Recently I have removed the carbs, set up a stand on my workbench. With spirt level set up so perfect, gauge tubes fitted so a visible float level can be set up.
The problem is, when looking in the official workshop manual it only gives you a float gauge "Tube Type" measurement. Most bikes I have ever worked on always give you a FLOAT HIGHT. I Started when I first stripped down the bowls. just to get a starting line I put a 4mm drill bit under the tab of the float. Over night this was over fuelling on all 3 . Cut a long story very short. The tabs are now bent up to accommodate 6.5 mm drill bit fitting under the tab (this is a snug fit.) Floats Tested them in glass jars with Gas, over a 3 week period, fully submerged and weighed them before and after, no problem here. Warning ! if you go up to 7 or 7.5 mm you will shut the valve off. But at 6.5mm This is the very first time I have seen the Carbs stable. I would like thoughts on this please. Happy new year to all you Guy's.






























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General rule of thumb is that a rough "correct" float height results in a float that's level with the carb body. That being said, the "tube" method given by the service manual is actually the more accurate way to set fuel levels- this way, you account for variations in needle height, float buoyancy, etc.

As for the steel-on-steel valves themselves, I've never had an issue with mine, both stock and aftermarket. Now, I'll wait for the experts to correct me if I'm wrong, but the float valves are not necessarily meant to airtight seal 100% of the time- they're more of a metering device to prevent massive fuel overload during use. While the bike is running they are constantly opening and closing slightly, maintaining a level rather than completely sealing off the bowls. Heck, some people prefer the steel-on-steel because ethanols and other crap in the fuel can't mess the tip up, like it can with rubber-tipped valves.

Actually cutting fuel off from the carbs 100% is the petcock's job.