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Thanks Scotch. Hopefully I can get to that today and let you know how it goes.

There is definitely an issue in this area. The right most sync adjuster was very tight. I backed them all off 1/2 turn and now the rpms will drop well to under 2000, then slowly drop down to about 1500. This adjustment made the idle climb so I adjusted that to 1000.

I tried another quarter turn on each adjuster but it wont work because I am out of idle screw adjustment. it is out as far as it will go.

Then I noticed whenever I touch the right most sync adjuster, the idle will rise and fall. This does not happen when I touch the others. If I push down on it I can make the idle drop and even make it stall. The left most one doesn't do that. The one that is right next to the right side adjuster is hard to tell because they are so close.

Not sure what to do from here.

Thanks

The first thing I looked for in the video was the Choke cam and roller. It appears that yours does NOT ride on the cam at idle and that's good !
If you can't find the problem while the carbs are on the bike, try this on the bench:
Depending on a few conditions there might be a coating of varnish on the cyl. side of the venturi. It is possible for this coating to become thick enough ( we're talking .000's ") to cause the throttle plates to get stuck on it, rather then against the actual Idle stop. Remove any staining/buildup regardless. Then apply several drops of Lacquer thinner to the Throttle shaft from the venturi side (4 places) with a SMALL artists paint brush. You just want to introduce some fluid to the throttle shaft where it turns in the body.. Work the throttle and repeat 2-3 times. Then from the venturi side, blow with compressed air too force the fluid out that will have wicked into the shaft/body. Repeat until the fluid expelled by the compressed air is clean. This applies to the center part of the shaft, between the two venturi's, as well. You will not expose the seals to enough Lacquer thinner for any concern. (Just don't soak the carbs in it over night )
There should now be a discernible difference in how they close. When operating the throttle plates by hand, there should be a definitive feel of the plates closing tight within the venturi. Shine a light from one end. Viewing from the opposite end -there should be no light! You can leave the throttle shafts dry but smear a drop of oil on the exposed seal (1) and the other two under the dust-caps. The dust-caps pry off and reinstall easily. To hydrate the seal that's behind the control arm, just let a drop of oil run into the gap. Put 1 drop of machine oil on each link ball. Static sync. before they leave the bench. This can save a shit-load of time and frustration !
Check to ensure the throttle shaft arms are strait, flat and that the throttle arms to throttle shaft and the ball to arm are at 90 degrees/strait and parallel, respectively. Not suggesting you have bent them but not knowing the history: I've seen throttles arms bent noticeably from someone trying to pry off the link-rods without first loosening/separating the bodies to get that needed space. If you have disassembled the link-rods make certain that the little ball-race is positioned correctly in the bottom of each link-rod. A tiny drop of grease on this small piece will hold it in position when reassembling. Ensure the two internal pins are oriented with the correct end in the pressure spring. Obvious maybe, but still worth the mention. Ensure the throttle return springs on each carb are installed and functioning correctly. Two are wound the same with the other wound opposite ! This is a no-brainer - if they are correctly oriented they will close the throttle plates. Again, obvious; but if you've seen what I've seen....!
I'm confident this will solve the problem.

Hope this helps - scotch

That's very descriptive. Thanks for this Scotch. Over the next few days I'll set aside some time and do exactly this and let you know how it turns out.

I think I am in the city Friday and I will see if anyone stocks a new sync gauge as well.