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Idle too high and rpms drop off too slow 7 years 10 months ago #12582

  • RickG
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Try turning the idle air bleed screws in about a quarter turn, souunds to me like it is running a touch lean at idle which will cause engine racing at a closed throttle.
Live your life so that the Westbro Baptist Church will want to picket your funeral
Z1300 A1 x 2
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Idle too high and rpms drop off too slow 7 years 10 months ago #12583

  • Ledkz1300
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Thanks Scotch.

Why would those screws be too tight to begin with? Someone (like me lol) not knowing what they were doing or tight from sitting too long? Option A makes sense given the general messed up state of this poor bike.

Will I need a professional to do this or do you think I can handle it myself? I'm far less afraid to mess with it now than I used to be.

Oh... and I HATE kz1300 airboxes. What a hell of job trying to get those rubber flanges seated. I finally did it by putting them on the carbs first, then frigging with the airbox to get the boots lined up... using a little plastic rod to push the rubber lips in the box. The middle one was a bugger. Then I screwed the top piece into the bottom and off I went. I tried it several other ways but this worked for me.

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Idle too high and rpms drop off too slow 7 years 10 months ago #12595

  • scotch
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Despite there being a spring between the Ball-joint pins (in the center of the link-arms) I discovered recently that it's easy to tighten the screw down too much during the static set-up. Ended up having the same issue with the throttle not wanting to return quickly, if at all. Backed the screws off a bit, re-scyn'd and all was good.

You don't need to be an "expert" to over-haul the carbs. Just a good sense of organisation, patience, a note-pad for reference notes and a phone-camera for some reference photo's. AND Some very easy to make specialized tools referred to in a number of carb-related articles in this forum. The photo's are self explanatory but will add that having an inventory of the "special" tools always at hand is the biggest asset you can have for carb.-work. I find that statically setting the carbs with a strip of paper and a flash-light works well for me.

It all comes down to familiarity. "Until you understand, You'll never Know. Until you know, you'll never understand !

Note how I never made a gratuitous reference to either "the Brass Floats" or "the Cleaning Tool" ! :)




1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
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Last edit: by scotch.

Idle too high and rpms drop off too slow 7 years 10 months ago #12614

  • Ledkz1300
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I'm not sure if I trust my patience to try it but I have a spare assembly to hone my skills if I wanted to.

I'd just as soon send it down to you and pay you to do it.... ;)

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Idle too high and rpms drop off too slow 7 years 10 months ago #12618

  • McZed
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Chicken!!!
;) :cheer:
Z1300 UK

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Idle too high and rpms drop off too slow 7 years 10 months ago #12620

  • Yaegunp
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Ledkz1300 wrote: Thanks Scotch.

Will I need a professional to do this or do you think I can handle it myself? I'm far less afraid to mess with it now than I used to be.

Oh... and I HATE kz1300 airboxes. What a hell of job trying to get those rubber flanges seated. I finally did it by putting them on the carbs first, then frigging with the airbox to get the boots lined up... using a little plastic rod to push the rubber lips in the box. The middle one was a bugger. Then I screwed the top piece into the bottom and off I went. I tried it several other ways but this worked for me.


I believe you should handle it yourself. I successfully did it (eventually)and I had never done it before. I also managed to have all the same problems you are experiencing but with patience I was rewarded with knowing how to remove and overhaul the carbies and being able to diagnose all those issues with idle, fast idle, accelerator cables and balance adjusting screws. From memory I had the carbs off 6 or 7 times and had to clean and re-clean them 3 times before I got it right. Now I reckon I could pull the carbies off and overhaul them in 3 hours (without breaks) and without the service manual.

Not sure if your airbox is different than mine but I leave the rubber flanges in the airbox. The hard part is getting the underside of the rubbers on. I use a long thin screwdriver and slide it between the rubber and the bottom of the carbie to coerce/help the rubber over the bottom of the carbie. Being careful not too damage the rubber. This worked every time with no fuss.

When you know what you don't know - It will all become clear
1983 Z1300 A5 plus Sidecar.
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