TOPIC:

So ive read the manual way of doing it, and its made my head spin, its kinda pointless as i only have a 4 gauge manomenter...............the good news is ive got the bike running and it sounds tight.

So, how do i do it, do i start on the left or the right?

Should i do for example the left two carbs, and then the right bringing the far right carb to the same reading level as the gauge hooked up to the middle carb.................or visa versa, any help would be appreciated before i go into chasing my tail mode!

Cheers

Ok I bought a Morgan Carbtune set of gauges, they are in a set of 4, that's all I used, didn't use 6 of them, heck if your linkages are reasonable on the carbies then you use 3 gauges cause adjusting one carb does 2 butterflies on 1 carb. Ok I got some brass nipples that screw into where the balancing bolts are in the inlet manifold, they are "proper" Kawasaki ones, but anything will do so long as you can get your vacuum tube over them, I put mine into number 1, 3 and 6 just to mix them up a bit, I still use the one in number 1 to supply vacuum to my petcock. You need to find or make a small tool to fit onto the hex head, little tiny thing, and a spanner for the locking nut, see photos. Run a external fuel tank, hang your gauges, do adjustments to get them equal and all is well, if you want you could swap the nipples onto the other inlets to see if they are equal later. I can't understand the settings, there is no "correct" measurement of the vacuum, just so long as they are all equal, it does my head in, i'm use to setting something at Blah Blah, and you know it's right but everyone says it doesn't matter just so long as they are the same, see my YouTube video (click on link at bottom of the post), anyway I've probably given you the wrong info but it worked for me, first time I ever did balancing, cheers Pete.

I always take the time to line them up by eye before installing them. Then It is just a matter of very fine tweaking if any.
Some bikes I have had were out of wack by 2-3 mm one one carb So i assume they had some very dodgy gauges .

I've had a set of three "typical" Automotive vacuum gauges and they've always given me the results I was looking for BUT: I had to calibrate them first. I manifolded them together, pulled a vacuum and found them all reading different by a range of +/- 1.5". No good for syncing and the difference is very noticeable as the engine idles. This is where it got tricky. I repair skydive altimeters so i had the insight to open up the vacuum gauges and make the required tweaks which involves among other things, bending a link-arm in the mechanism. Simply put: lengthen or short the lever. Not something I'd recommend to anyone who hasn't some experience dealing with this type of albeit simple mechanism. Having all three needles read exactly "Zero" doesn't mean anything. I prefer to know they all read exactly the same at the range I am syncing, within.

That's my two cents.

This won't help you, but 35 years ago I bought a mercury column manometer type balancing tool to use on my Yamaha XS Eleven. I went for the six column model, because I hoped, back then, to have a six cylinder bike one day. I've not used it yet on the KZ1300, but I can say it worked a treat on the Yamaha. It does not suffer fluctuations to the same degree gauges do.