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Help with K1300 Restoration Please 10 years 3 days ago #2652

  • KEL
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strate6 wrote: KEL,

Do you have a FUEL VALVE or a FUEL PUMP fitted (both different things).

A fuel valve is CLOSED with the power off & OPENS with the power ON.......so removing wires will stop the bike from starting.
A FUEL PUMP will begin to pump (CLICK) once fed power until it fills your 3 float bowls. It should then stop clicking.

If I were you I would try to make the first starting process as simple & easy as possible, so would remove the fuel valve/fuel pump & fit a direct pipe (with an inline filter if tank is rusty inside).

Again I am assuming your bike has a standard set-up so you are aware you need the clutch in as you press the starter ???????

If you cannot get the starter motor to turn over you can try JUMP STARTING with jump leads to another 12v battery to increase the power.

Pete F

Ahh lesson 1! Must have clutch in when starting. Didn't know that.
Now from your description, the silver box in my earlier photo that is clicking must be a FUEL PUMP as it is constantly clicking (trying to fill the bowls?)
I went down and tried again with clutch in and still no movement. I have a brand new fully charged battery so maybe the connections on ythe Starter Solenoid are not making contact. Maybe I should pull them off and clean them??
Any other ideas Pete?

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Help with K1300 Restoration Please 10 years 3 days ago #2653

  • strate6
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KEL,

If you have a fully charged battery but get nothing at all when you press the starter (with clutch in) then the problem will no doubt be electrical & could be anywhere.

Its a case of checking each part of the wiring from the ignition switch (and main switch at seat lock) right through to the feed into the starter solenoid switch itself.

The handlebar switches are always suspect, as the small metal pieces inside often corrode & the start button is at the very bottom where the water collects.

IF YOU ARE VERY CAREFUL YOU CAN TRY THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE.

With ignition on & clutch lever in..........use a long screwdriver to "ARCH" the two large connections on the top of your starter solenoid. If the starter is ok it will turn immediately.
this will then confirm you have a wiring issue BEFORE the starter solenoid.

Its a case of going through everything closely unfortunately !

Let us know how you get on ?

Pete F
Why Have Four When You Can Have Six ?

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Help with K1300 Restoration Please 10 years 3 days ago #2656

  • Mikez
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I agree I've diagnosed a bad started solenoid before by bridging the gap with a pair of needle nosed and insulated pliers. If you're handy enough with electric motors, it's also worth it to open up the starter motor and give it a good cleaning. The starter motors on these bikes tend to have trouble grounding themselves. See Dread's biker site writeup: www.dreadsbikersite.com/Z1300/starting.htm I followed his writeup and haven't had any trouble. Might even be worth putting a drop of solder on one of the contacts he refers to so it can better ground itself.

I'm 100% sure that box in your pictures is a fuel pump. I would remove it completely because it can do more harm than good. If the float bowl needles can't handle the pressure, gas will blow past them flooding everything which isn't good at all.

Also, I could be wrong but I believe there's an accessory switch/ignition cutoff on the seat lock of the bike. If you have the key turned to the ignition cutoff you might get accessory power but no ignition. Just spitballing that one but thought I would mention in case it was missed :).

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Help with K1300 Restoration Please 10 years 3 days ago #2657

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No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationOh by the way, I didnt mention it but I believe I found similar fuel pumps on ebay:

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Help with K1300 Restoration Please 10 years 3 days ago #2658

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Make sure these pumps do not produce more than 1.5 psi pressure MAXIMUM or it will just blow past your 3 float valves, flood the carbs & engine very quickly.

You need to ensure the pump you use is for CARB set-ups rather than fuel injection or other systems which need a higher pressure.

Pete F
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Help with K1300 Restoration Please 10 years 3 days ago #2665

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I just had a thought on this as well. There's fuel pressure regulators that are commercially available for carbureted engines. They look to be adjustable from 1-4 psi. If one is fitted after a fuel pump such as this, it could prevent too much pressure? Just thinking out loud :).
www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HLY0/1...1&pt=N0514&ppt=C0128

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