TOPIC:

Good numbers Paul! Looking forward to seeing it on the engine.

Bucko wrote: I'm surprised you could take 0.3 mm off the valve stem and still have the keeper grove in the right spot to ensure the valve bucket is pressing on the valve tip and not the spring. Good to know.

And it's in the Service Manual

Its right on the limit and indeed I was lucky.

I have put the whole thing back together again... taking extra care to get the timing right. I also put the side covers back on and will replace the old tensioner with the new one tomorrow, then fill up with oil and do a compression test.

Wish me luck!

Paul

You don't need luck.. You got this. We talked you in to doing the primary chains yourself and you pulled it off. Check check check. You 'll be fine.

Right, oil in, check all bolts on engine covers etc for oil leaks, run the starter on a spare battery. Compression test results:

1 - 85
2 - 75
3 - 75
4 - 85
5 - 95
6 - 100

Not sure if these results are particularly great considering I have new rings and valves, but at least it will run. It may improve after running in.

Spark plugs ordered and inlets/exhaust plugged for storage. Now the engine can be dropped back into the frame and the work on the frame can begin. Starting with front forks and making changes to the rear of the frame to accommodate the seat.

I have found some 2017 Triumph 1200 Explorer front forks that are the same length as the original Kawasaki ones. I'll have to investigate if these will be up to the heavy 1300. If not I'll stick with Ducati Multistrada Ohlins, I know those will be fine, but they are expensive!! I also found some awesome Hagon rear shocks that can be made-to-measure for length, style and my weight. Not expensive!

Thanks all for the help and encouragement on the engine work. It looks great and is back in good health, considering how I found it.

Paul

As was:

And now:

Hmpf,

I just did a little more research and it seems the compression test results I have are pants.

I can't actually find the official specs for cylinder compression for these bikes anywhere, but from most of the conversations on the forum it seems I need 120-170... almost double of what I have.

At a loss as what to do now.

I do not have a leak-down tester and after having done it three times now, I am pretty sure I got the timing right. Could it be that the cam chain is worn - despite me measuring it and it being within spec? The cam chain tensioner seems to be right on the limit, as in: when I put it in and push the spring in, there are more than 10 clicks before it stops (this is the modified ZX10 version)

Paul