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Picked this poor thing up for $750. Needs some major love. I havent gotten too far into it yet. The wiring is a mess. I just took all the extra lights, horns, gauges and the CB Antenna off it. Got all the random parts out of the boxes and the saddle bags. Once looking over the wire harness, I noticed the white/red wire that goes from the battery terminal to the fuse box was been cut. PO said the people who had it before him had a toggle switch ignition and the ingition switch was hosed. He bough another one but it still wouldnt start. I twisted together that white/red wire but it is still in a no power condition. Gunna get back at it this afternoon and post more pics.

This is picture #1, just rolled out of the truck.

Well, made some headway. Found that there was a second switch, the main switch, it was broken off. I was lucky enough to find the key matching replacement in the pile of parts! Installed it and it cranks! Put gas to the carbs and they flooded, pulled em off and dipped them in the ultrasonic cleaner. No fire! No spark to the plugs. After a bunch of troubleshooting, looks like one coil has no continuity, gotta deal with that. Power at the battery is 12v when on, 10v when cranking. 11.5 at the coils when on 9v when cranking so the battery isn't working well. At this point, I need to pull the coil and see if it's a bad connection or a short, I might just hook up a car battery and see if I can get fire, and maybe even hear it run! At that point, new coil, new battery and it should be golden. Then I'll sort out the rear lighting issues and start putting all the electrical where it belongs, then start reassembling! Can't wait to hear it run on all 6!!!!!

Pictures: cutting new float bowl gaskets and broken main switch

9 volts at the coils when cranking a cold engine isn't bad. If it was down around 7 volts or less, I'd be concerned. A hot engine is more loose and wouldn't draw big amps. Nothing wrong with the car battery test. Just ensure the vehicle supplying the voltage is not running.

I got a chance to work on the kz today. Was checking the coils and got no continuity on the spark plug leads on one. I pulled them and they are all split open. So new coils will get ordered soon. Ill be getting some aw82's for sure. I read that the resistor can go out and fry the cdi so took all the wires off it and checked resistance. All three were between 2.5 and 2.9 ohms. I read that it should be less than that. Isnit safe to assume the resistor (and cdi) are fine?

Following

You should be fine.

When people remove the ballast resistor or change out the coils for lower resistance coils, it causes the primary ignition circuit to draw more power which then has to pass through the CDI box. The transistors in that box can't take the higher draw so they get fried. Too high a resistance in the primary ignition side will cause a weak spark due to lower power going through the primary which means lower power through the secondary side.
When ballast resistors fail, they fail open circuit so that would cause lack of power to the CDI and that situation won't cause CDI failure.
Just be sure that the coils you select measure between 2.5 - 3.0 ohms or lower then add a ballast resistor to bring you to 2.5 ohms. There are lots of ballast resistors out there to choose from and you can match (add) to get the proper resistance. I picked up a set of AW82's from EBay and they measured 2.0 ohms. I'm adding ballast resistors from a BMW car which measure .5 ohms to bring me to 2.5 ohms. And if you go this route, when one of the ballasts fail, you can replace the one ballast at a cost of $12 instead of the Kawasaki 3 circuit ballast which is $150