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Hi Stan,

They look very nice and clean. I wish I’d spent more time cleaning the carbs but they have been cleaned both ultrasonically and with Scotch’s cleaning tool. I may get them vapour blasted later on in the year once I’m happy with how it runs.

There is some discoloration on mine in a couple places but all is clean and smooth so I didn't bother.
I just took completely apart the second carburetor in no more than 30 minutes, and will be cleaning it as well.

Now the dry adjustment phase. I set the mixture screws to 1 3/4 turns. I think somewhere that people don't like the service manual suggested setting. I'd like to get some feedback about this. Also, a practical way of adjusting the fuel level in the bowls.

You've got a fantastic shine on those carbs, Stan. Is that angled piece to which they all are attached another recent returnee from the chrome plating shop?

Those carbs of yours look awesome, Stan! The attention to detail on the outside suggests the same attention to the internals. The "practical" (best) way to adjust the floats is per the manual. No short-cuts !
Regarding the idle mixture screws: For years I have had mine set at an arbitrary 3 1/2 and mine started and idled nicely. I bought a "Gunsons Color Tune" last year and using it I found that the idle screws varied from 2 1/2 to 3 /34 turns. I think you're going to find that 1 3/4 turns will be too lean. You should "pre-synchronise" the throttle-plates before you install the carbs. Cut a strip of writing-paper about 6" long and 1/4" wide. Place it under one of the throttle plates ( doesn't matter which one of the pairs) and adjust the synchronization screw until the paper strip is pinched. Do this to all three carb's so the paper strip has the same resistance to being pulled out. This will put the throttle plates very close to where they need to be to start the synchronization process, once you're ready to start the engine and complete the tuning. Doing a "static" sync. on the bench will save a pile of frustration and is an excellent way to get familiar with how the sync-screws operate relative to the other carbs. You're about to discover how sensitive vacuum gauges are to the slightest turn of the screw including the tightening of the lock-nut ! "Patience" is the key word ! The time put in to these adjustments will pay off !

That L bar was chrome plated, yes! There are many parts I'd galvanize, but it's been not available, so I chose chrome plating. My logic was as follows: if you are going to keep a bike for 10 years, or 30 as some (I'll be hitting almost 90 in 30 years, so those who are younger or bought the bike decades ago are at huge advantage ), the cost divided by years and months seriously justifies the extra cost of having parts preserved. Done once, I think it will stay crisp for many many years.

Scotch: all noted! I need to write it down and play around. Not ready yet to post any outcome! haha Held up strong light I can see difference between what comes through the gaps in the butterfly assemblies. The good thing about the mixture is the screws will have access when the tank is removed, BUT, never had to do that on any other bike!
For now, I will do all that you suggest, and that's what exactly I want, when it comes to dry settings and especially synchronizing. Get the bike run, then do fine tuning!

With so many things done, changed, on my bike, lots of parameters will change with use and breaking the machine in. Fine tuning will take a few takes over time, what counts for now is to have a jumping board.