TOPIC:

Stan - The OEM headlight housing measures approx.. 22cmW X 17cmH. So it should be workable. You will likely have to add a bushing to each side but that's not even an issue. The "ears" look nice ! Don't know if they're long enough to drill-out for the signals without conflict with the heads-light housing but there's several ways I can think of to mitigate that.
At least you'll have "something" working and when you come across the "real" thing you can swap out the parts at that time.

Great! 4 cm is not a big deal. Yes, a couple bushings will do. These ears are chrome plated, not sure how drilling them would go. Maybe the chrome would start peeling off? Overall, not a pricey experiment, and I have a feeling I am seriously progressing. I will target turn signals ready to mount directly on the forks. Very excited, it's like Christmas!

The stoplight is yet to found, but that's more complex because I don't have the rear fender.

StanG wrote: Good morning guys!

Tacklehappy, please post anything you have done or do regarding the M-unit! Photos of all the parts and tools with short detailed explanation would help me started. Scotch suggested that since I am doing everything from scratch, why not doing it up to the current technology. And like I said before, I don't have any of the light fixtures, so it would be cheaper to buy aftermarket lights and spend the money on this unit instead. To satisfy my purist urges, I can leave collecting oem hardware for later. I can relate to you not having time, as I am in a similar situation. Except the work part, which I must change soon or I will not be able to pay for this project and everything else, and with that my available time will also dwindle...

Tim - thank you. Yes, I know he has them. I am just trying to source them locally if possible. Helmut has lots of good stuff, but prices in Euro converted to Canadian dollars make them sky high. If I am not mistaken, with shipping it would be about $60 per one rubber. I might just use duct tape instead, hahaha

Ok, Saturday morning and three coffee's later, camera in hand and ready to go.
This maybe perfect timing for you Stan as you are coming upto the wiring/ electrical part of the re-build and have option of changing direction slightly, that is , just replacing the circuit breaker/ oem fuse box with something more modern, or re-wiring the whole bike .
So to start - for others who follow along - the fuse box : I have found two cheaper options than the Motogadget. I bought this one some years ago for my Hayabusa to run all my accessories . I mounted it up in the fairing and used it for a number of years.
www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
This guy will take some of the guess work out of rewiring by doing it for you.

www.twistedthrottle.ca/denali-powerhub2-...ness-for-motorcycles.
There are many others in between these two price points. They both use the more modern type fuses.

The next part is to decide where the fuse box ( in this case - the Motogadget M-blue ) is going to be located.
Somewhere around the battery box if you are not going to do a lot of rewiring.
Maybe in the tail section , but it will require using a lot more wire.

Anyway- getting a little bit ahead of the game here.
This is what I've done over the years.
The bike started out as a 1980 B2 -hence the large tank.

It has the motogadget " dashboard ( Motosign ) and speedo/tachometer

LED turn signals and bulbs in the rear brake light/ running light





The handlebar controls are Motogadget push button. Push once for on, again for off. The handlebars are LSL aluminum with all the wiring inside the handlebar.

Thank you! Lots of info, and lots do digest! Right now I am mainly gathering information. Still miles away from the point of putting the electrical system together.
Your bike looks great! All clean and in place I also considered the metallic color for the engine, so as you see still exercising options. That satin black is tempting though..

I have a question regarding brake calipers. I think Scotch might jump on it with a ready answer, although pretty much anyone who owns the bike for years would know the answer.

I am putting the front calipers together, and got stuck a little at the dust seals stage. The pistons are in. Then I installed the dust seal with the steel ring, around the end of the piston.
When removing the seals I had to pry those steel rings out. After cleaning, putting the new rubbers on them and pushing those rings into the caliper, they seem to float. When pulling the piston out, they also pull out at certain point. Shouldn't they be seated solid in the caliper? Or perhaps it's alright because the pistons don't travel this far?
Or should I use some blue non-permanent Loctite around them?

Hi Stan. You need to clarify something for me.
Are you referring to #14- Steel Plate?
.


If you are, then no. It shouldn't move at all. It secures that non-floating pad firmly into the caliper body by means of the Philips-head bolt. The "Puck' brake pad is the only thing that should be moving.